Shopsmith Forums

Got the quill pulled last night. Continued the application of PB Blaster during the day and then put the 3-1/2" lathe faceplate on the shaft. Put gentle pressure on the quill extender lever while gently bopping on the back of the faceplate with a rubber mallet. Quill started moving pretty much right off the bat and a few more taps had it out all the way. Success!!!

The problem was just a bit of rust between the quill and the boring in the headstock (which is about 3" long). I am now using #00 steel wool to gentle remove the rust on the quill and I'll use some 400 grit carbide sandpaper (wet) to clean up any boo-boo's on the headstock boring. Than lots of wax and buffing applications and I can continue my cleanup.

By the way, I do think the other end of the drive shaft can be removed without pulling the quill. The two are only connected by the splined shaft.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

beeg wrote:When ya wax it, do it again the next two days. So that it soaks in on the newly cleaned parts.

You really think the wax soaks in? If you said you were trying to build up a hard coat of wax by multiple layers, I would buy that. But soaks in, I don't think so. Anyhow, keep it waxed!

It has been interesting reading this thread and glad the issure has been resolved. I did preventive maintenance on my 520 a few days ago and was wondering if any "lube" should be placed on the splines?
Regards,
Dwight

WHEW!!!! I'm glad it's OVER!!!!!!!:D

drl wrote:It has been interesting reading this thread and glad the issure has been resolved. I did preventive maintenance on my 520 a few days ago and was wondering if any "lube" should be placed on the splines?
Regards,
Dwight

Since the Poly-V quill shaft splines are sliding inside a plastic coupler (drive and ring assembly), I would believe that any lubication could attract dust and crud causing wear on the plastic coupler splines. I do spray just a touch of dry lube on the quill shaft splines. The Gilmer quill shaft splines and drive sleeve splines are metal to metal coupling. I use a lot more dry lube on the Gilmer quill shaft splines and let dry for a day or two before assembling. What does any one else use or not use?

markfive510 wrote:You really think the wax soaks in? If you said you were trying to build up a hard coat of wax by multiple layers, I would buy that. But soaks in, I don't think so. Anyhow, keep it waxed!

I seem to remember that Nick telling us that paste wax will not build up if you really buff it out good each time. That we were wasting our time doing 2 or more waxings on the same item. Just do a good job the first time and buff. I clean the item/tube/etc. and wax only one time and buff really good.

How many of you still from time to time paste wax your car? I have a hobby car, 1979 Cordoba 40K miles all original even the paint. If I put on one coat it gets a nice shine and feels smooth....... however a second coat really makes a difference.

Yes we all know the wax for cars is not the wax for a shopsmith, and yes we all know the wax will end up a few molecule thick... however a second coat always makes it better???

I find the same thing on the shopsmith... I wax the tubes ones they slide along nice but when I put a second coat on they now feel even smoother. Is it all in my head??? I don't think so.

For me I'm a two coat person... when it warms I might even rig a test to see if there is anything to my gut feelings. Should be able to put one coat of wax on the over wintered tubes and with the headstock unlocked slowly raise it until the headstock starts to slide... find that point and record it. Maybe do the 5 to 10 times. Now go and put a second coat of wax and repeat. Wixley users should have no problem doing this test.

This is one of those time when you should feel free to do this at home if you want.

Ed

billmayo wrote:I seem to remember that Nick telling us that paste wax will not build up if you really buff it out good each time. That we were wasting our time doing 2 or more waxings on the same item. Just do a good job the first time and buff. I clean the item/tube/etc. and wax only one time and buff really good.

reible wrote:How many of you still from time to time paste wax your car? I have a hobby car, 1979 Cordoba 40K miles all original even the paint. If I put on one coat it gets a nice shine and feels smooth....... however a second coat really makes a difference.

Yes we all know the wax for cars is not the wax for a shopsmith, and yes we all know the wax will end up a few molecule thick... however a second coat always makes it better???

I find the same thing on the shopsmith... I wax the tubes ones they slide along nice but when I put a second coat on they now feel even smoother. Is it all in my head??? I don't think so.

For me I'm a two coat person... when it warms I might even rig a test to see if there is anything to my gut feelings. Should be able to put one coat of wax on the over wintered tubes and with the headstock unlocked slowly raise it until the headstock starts to slide... find that point and record it. Maybe do the 5 to 10 times. Now go and put a second coat of wax and repeat. Wixley users should have no problem doing this test.

This is one of those time when you should feel free to do this at home if you want.

Ed

Ed
I tend to agree with you, I know what Nick said but I too have experienced what you observed. I don't know if the wax gets any thicker or whether it is just a more uniformed coating with two coats but my experience says two are better than one.

What I really think happens is the solvent in the wax that makes it to be able to be applied reliquidifies the first coat and makes it flow better than single coat alone. But I do know you can wax build up on things like floors and such so I wonder if that doesn't happen to some degree on way tubes and such.

markfive510 wrote:You really think the wax soaks in? If you said you were trying to build up a hard coat of wax by multiple layers, I would buy that. But soaks in, I don't think so. Anyhow, keep it waxed!

The two coat thing I remember reading in some SS setup instructions. BUT it may just apply to cast iron surfaces. Now it doesn't take long wax it again, so I would?