Shopsmith Forums

It always helps to clamp the wood when drilling in the drill press mode, no matter what kind of hole you're drilling.

The demo Rick did at the TA was using a small piece of wood (he did the same demo at the TA's I attended) that he said himself should be clamped down to either the fence or table. He didn't suffer any kickback when he did it during the TA's I attended. Maybe it was just a one time thing.

He did use a brad point bit just like I do and I have no problem with kickback/gouging as long as the wood is held correctly. When making pocket holes, I always clamp it down to the fence when the wood is smaller/shorter than the length of the fence/table. If it is longer, I have found no need to clamp it down as long as I hold it firmly against the fence with my free hand.

I know this adds an extra setup, but try starting the hole with a SS router bit(the ones with a 1/2" shank. They do NOT wander! Advance the quill until the shallow side of the hole is started, then change over to whatever bit you need. The router will give the bit a flat(perpendicular) surface to start.

Thanks to all for your information. I decided to go with the Kreg Jr. I built a simple 4 by 8 frame using 2x12 redwood for raised gardening . This was a lot simpler then using Lug Bolts and easier to align.
I plan to make some cabinets next. I'll be using the SS to do my cuts.

Dave C.