Shopsmith Forums

does anyone here have and use the Shopsmith "Bench/Drill Press Vice"? (555994) I'd love to read your review of this accessory! http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... 5994&qty=1

BTW - This device is one that uses the miter slots.

Hi Chuck,

Can't say what was up with yours but I have never had one that didn't work for about anything I wanted to punch and they are adjustable as to how much impact they deliver. You also have the option of popping it several times if you wish.

I'm assuming that the reference to using the brad points is to making wood and not metal, right?

Ed

charlese wrote:Yep, had one of those a couple of decades ago. It wouldn't make punch marks in metal, big enough to help start a bit. Had to use a hand held punch anyway! I threw it out, or gave it to my kid. He loves all kinds of tools! He grew up into a professional tinkerer. Well paid too!

Presently, I use the point on the brad point bits/ Forstner bits to both mark and start holes.

Hi,

I have the vice, it also works on the OPR as a sliding jig as can be seen here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=2730

I don't know if I'm up to writing a review but if you have some questions I'd be happy to answer them. Vise wise it is light duty.

Ed

charlese wrote:does anyone here have and use the Shopsmith "Bench/Drill Press Vice"? (555994) I'd love to read your review of this accessory! http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/productoptions.htm?item=555994&qty=1

BTW - This device is one that uses the miter slots.

Oh Yeah! The brad point bits don't touch anything but wood!!!!
I don't know if I got a bad automatic punch or what! I don't remember that it was adjustable. This was in the early '60s.

We would be interested in what uses you have for these automatic punches. Maybe I (we) would be interested again. Do you use one with wood?

charlese wrote:Oh Yeah! The brad point bits don't touch anything but wood!!!!
I don't know if I got a bad automatic punch or what! I don't remember that it was adjustable. This was in the early '60s.

We would be interested in what uses you have for these automatic punches. Maybe I (we) would be interested again. Do you use one with wood?

a good ONE BETTER BE ADJUSTABLE or it will bury itself in wood. I think it makes a difference WHO made. I have had very good luck with 'brown&sharp, starrett etc'. These come in different sizes/strengths and are ALL adjustable. They DO have a tendency to break(they are made of very hard steel). The only other problem is that they often grow legs and run off.

Hi,

Just a couple more things on the auto center punches. I have several of them all the current ones are fine but I got some early editions of a much thinner design which ended up self destructing a part inside... They of course are no longer on the market.

As always here are a couple of pictures. The one on the far left is one that use to have a bunch of different tips for it... they have vanished over time and I have not seen this model anywhere anymore but I liked the wider tip which is the one pictured for wood anyway.

[ATTACH]3664[/ATTACH]

The one in the center and on the right are perhaps the newest I have and came with the replaceable tip. I have a couple that are the same minus the replaceable tip idea. I pulled it apart but not all the way, so if you get one and want to explore be aware that the mechanism that has the release in it also has a spring and if you are not careful you might find yourself on hands and knees searching for it.... not that has ever happened to me but I've heard...

You can see the marks left in the plywood by the punch. Depending on the wood this maybe work for you or it may not. A little practice on a piece of scrap is in order. These do have an impact and look a lot like the tools used to take out safety glass but I wouldn't try that at home. Same issue with some plastics...

[ATTACH]3665[/ATTACH]

Yes they were designed I think for metal work but they do work with wood.

Ed

Hi everyone,

I'm still trying to “catch my breath” on the jointer/rabbet subject, but on to the drill press.

I noted in the beginning of PWTFE chapter 7 the repeated safety warnings on immediately removing the key from the chuck when finished tightening the bit. I learned a safety rule from a machine shop teacher way back in high school which sums it up and has stayed with me over the years - Once you pick up a chuck key from its storage spot it does not leave your hand until its back in its storage spot.

I also noted the various types of drill bits spoken to in the text and shown in Fig 7-3. I am familiar with most of them (haven't drilled much plastic) but I have a question regarding the “screw bits” shown there and in Fig 7-19.

When I look at the wood screws that I purchase at my local hardware store or HD, unless they are very short, they don't seem to have much, if any, taper along the length of the screw until reaching the very tip. I haven't checked them with a micrometer, but they certainly don't appear to have the long taper apparent in the photos of these drill bits. So what is the story behind this type of bit? I see they are sold in the various woodworking supply catalogs and they can be a bit “pricey”. Is there a special reason for using this type of bit? Is it a gimick? Have wood screws changed, or are there different types of wood screws (and I'm getting the cheap ones)?

Dennis

perryobear wrote:Hi everyone,

I'm still trying to &#8220]Once you pick up a chuck key from its storage spot it does not leave your hand until its back in its storage spot.[/I]

I also noted the various types of drill bits spoken to in the text and shown in Fig 7-3. I am familiar with most of them (haven't drilled much plastic) but I have a question regarding the “screw bits” shown there and in Fig 7-19.

When I look at the wood screws that I purchase at my local hardware store or HD, unless they are very short, they don't seem to have much, if any, taper along the length of the screw until reaching the very tip. I haven't checked them with a micrometer, but they certainly don't appear to have the long taper apparent in the photos of these drill bits. So what is the story behind this type of bit? I see they are sold in the various woodworking supply catalogs and they can be a bit “pricey”. Is there a special reason for using this type of bit? Is it a gimick? Have wood screws changed, or are there different types of wood screws (and I'm getting the cheap ones)?

Dennis

I am going to hazard a GUESS in regard to the 'taper'.

If the pilot hole is tapered(slightly), the 'traditional' wood screw will bite into the upper(larger) portion of the hole as it starts. Since the screw must be screwed THROUGH that portion of the hole, a real tight fit would cause one to apply much torque to drive the screw through it WHILE creating new 'threads' closer to the bottom of the hole. Nearer the bottom of the hole the upper portion of the hole has 'worn' somewhat and doesn't resist turning as much. The narrower bottom of the hole provides more secure bite for the screw and since it IS near the end, you do NOT have to drive it far with increased torque.
I do hope all this DOES make sense(after all it IS a guess).

Don't overlook the feature of these bits in that they also drill the upper shank CLEARANCE and the counter sink for the head.

When I think of drill presses and drilling I think of the wisdom Nick shared with us. Nick said it is the drill bit that is doing the work. Too many times we buy mega dollar drills but use JUNK drill bits and get lousy results.

That made sense to me! Since I heard Nick say that I have been in the process of upgrading my drill bits. Instead of buying knock off sets of 101 drills for $19.95 + SH I have been buying jobber quality drills.

Yeah it hurts everytime I have to pay for them but I have found in the reduces aggravation along it has been worth it.

I'm doing the same with my Saw blades, Bandsaw blades, router bits and all other cutting instruments.

My advice get yourself a good set of brad point bits for your woodworking. I believe the old brad point bits SS use to sale were excellent. I don't know enough about the current product to make a comment.

I have always been very careful about never leaving a key stuck in a chuck but I have always thought that a switch that was turned off and on by sticking the chuck key in a hole to operate the switch would be a good idea.
I always work very carefully but at this point in my life I never when I am going to do something dangerous by working with my head in my... er, uh, pocket. That's it, pocket...