Blowing fuse

[johnm]

You may have a weak starting capacitor in your motor which will limit the starting torque. At the high rpm setting it takes longer to come up to speed and that trips the breaker. Just a thought...

That screeching sound is probably due to the blade guide bearing adjustments; there was an earlier lengthy thread about this somewhere in the forum. Get yourself a manual and start tweaking :-)

I started the headstock with the bandsaw attached at one of the highest speeds and cranked the speed down to D. Everything worked fine. However, if I started it set at a high speed and let it "crank up" to that speed it then blew once it got to the highest speed. Not a smart thing to do now that I've read these posts. I did some cutting last night and at D speed everything went fine.
The only other things I have on that circuit are a portable telephone, some shop lights and the SS. Ran the circlular blade and all was ok.

I'm going to jump into the screetching sound. I did feel the bandsaw blade after doing some small cuts and it was not hot to the touch, not cold but just a mild temp to the touch. Don't know if that helps.
I've never taken the blade off so will go through video on that. Didn't get a manual when I got the saw.

[Ed in Tampa]

Puttn
Like Dusty I'm glad you up and running but I too have problems with your conclusion. No matter what speed you start the bandsaw at should not be the cause for the tripping the breaker. Shopsmiths should run on a 15 amp breaker all the time, the fact that your tripping a 20 amp breaker says there is a problem somewhere and I really don't think it is in the Bandsaw.

Running the bandsaw at a higher speed can damage the bandsaw due to centrifugal force, heat build up in blade, and etc but nothing that should cause a breaker to trip.

The fact you were able to run the SS at a high speed then slow it down and then connect the bandsaw and have it work tells me either there is a bind in the headstock ( could be something as simple as the drive belt taking a set and sticking in the speed control sheaves) or there is an electrical problem.

Either get an inline amp meter (or a clamp on) and measure the amperage or probe your circuit looking for voltage drops. Somewhere there is a problem that is causing your Shopsmith to draw more current than it should with or without the bandsaw. A normal Shopsmith with bandsaw attached is made to turn on a 15 amp circuit, that means the normal current draw is below 15 amps. Your blowing out a 20 amp circuit which means your using at least 5 more amps that you should be. If I remember correct my SS draws about 12 amps once it is up to speed, if that is correct then you SS is drawing 8 more amps which is 75% more than normal.

Find the circuit problem then fix the screech in the Bandsaw!

[dusty]

I started the headstock with the bandsaw attached at one of the highest speeds and cranked the speed down to D. Everything worked fine. However, if I started it set at a high speed and let it "crank up" to that speed it then blew once it got to the highest speed.

During this run up, the Shopsmith is drawing current in excess of the breaker rating. In time the breaker kicks - as it should. I still feel that you have a marginal 115vac supply line. This is not a function of speed but rather one of time since turn on.

Not a smart thing to do now that I've read these posts. I did some cutting last night and at D speed everything went fine.
The only other things I have on that circuit are a portable telephone, some shop lights and the SS. Ran the circlular blade and all was ok.

I'm going to jump into the screetching sound. I did feel the bandsaw blade after doing some small cuts and it was not hot to the touch, not cold but just a mild temp to the touch. Don't know if that helps.
I've never taken the blade off so will go through video on that. Didn't get a manual when I got the saw.

Please start a separate thread for the band saw discussion.

[Ed in Tampa]

[quote="dusty"]I am pleased that you are up and running but I am having some difficulty with the conclusions. Your headstock should be able to start, without kicking the breaker, with the bandsaw connected.

For safety reasons, you should not run the bandsaw at the higher speeds but the headstock is not the reason. This is a safety limitation regarding the probability of the band saw throwing a blade at higher speeds.

I believe you are operating very close to a current limit in your primary 115 vac power distribution system.

The Shopsmith should operate normally, without tripping a breaker, on a 15amp breaker with a 14ga home run (connection from the wall outlet to the main breaker panel). Ideally, that would be replaced with 12ga wire and a 30amp breaker. You do not seem to be able to do this and I believe you should resolve that issue as a priority.

Are you certain that there is not some other item drawing current along with your Shopsmith on this line?

Let's talk about your screeching bearings in a separate thread but as a precursor let me ask one question. Without making any changes, check to see which bearings are spinning. When you are NOT CUTTING only one bearing should be moving]


Dusty
I think 12 gauge wire is only good for 20 amp breakers if you want 30 amps you must go to 8 gauge wire. I don't think I ever saw a 30 amp 110 breaker used. Usually anything over 20 amps automatically goes to 220.

US National Electrical Code
maximum Amperage AWG Wire Size
18 ------------------- 7
16 ------------------10
14 ------------------15
12-------------------20
10-------------------25
8--------------------35
6--------------------45
4--------------------60
2------------------- 80

[JPG]

Dusty
I think 12 gauge wire is only good for 20 amp breakers if you want 30 amps you must go to 8 gauge wire. I don't think I ever saw a 30 amp 110 breaker used. Usually anything over 20 amps automatically goes to 220.

US National Electrical Code
maximum Amperage AWG Wire Size
18 ------------------- 7
16 ------------------10
14 ------------------15
12-------------------20
10-------------------25
8--------------------35
6--------------------45
4--------------------60
2------------------- 80

10 GAUGE IS 'TYPICAL' FOR 30A CIRCUITS WITH 'SHORT' RUNS.

None of us knows what affect a high speed setting has on current draw(start up especially). Puttn does NOT have a tripping breaker problem when SS Speed is at D. Whether the excessive speed setting CAUSED the tripping problem by itself has not been determined.

PUTTN: Heed Ed's suggestion! DO determine SS running current(it MAY be too high as Ed has implied). The 'what else is on the circuit' question needs to be determined. If you Do get an ammeter, determine what current draw is with SS unplugged.

The reason for all this activity 'after apparent disappearance of problem' is that its occurence is not totally understood.

[beeg]

[quote="JPG40504"]If you Do get an ammeter, determine what current draw is with SS unplugged.[/QUOTE]

I can tell ya from here that the current draw will be ZERO.

[dusty]

Dusty
I think 12 gauge wire is only good for 20 amp breakers if you want 30 amps you must go to 8 gauge wire. I don't think I ever saw a 30 amp 110 breaker used. Usually anything over 20 amps automatically goes to 220.

US National Electrical Code
maximum Amperage AWG Wire Size
18 ------------------- 7
16 ------------------10
14 ------------------15
12-------------------20
10-------------------25
8--------------------35
6--------------------45
4--------------------60
2------------------- 80

You are absolutely correct. That is a big goof on my part. I would like to call it a typo but I am not sure these days. The 30A callout is INCORRECT. It should have been 20Amp.

[JPG]

If you Do get an ammeter, determine what current draw is with SS unplugged.[/QUOTE]

I can tell ya from here that the current draw will be ZERO.

NO! It will indicate the current being drawn by ALL other devices plugged into the branch circuit including all those he is aware of and has mentioned AND anything else that has been overlooked. The Ammeter needs to be applied at the circuit breaker end of the branch circuit. A wraparound ammeter is the safest method.

[Ed in Tampa]

Just as a matter of fact I have (mistakenly) ran both my Shopsmith and my DC3300 on the same 20 amp circuit at the same time. I always start the DC3300 before the SS so no they aren't starting together. The performance of both was instantly noticable and I quickly rectified the situation. However the fact they did run together tells me if Puttn is tripping a 20 amp breaker either more is on the circuit that he knows about or something is radically wrong somewhere.
That needs to be understood/fixed before anything else is done.

[putttn]

I do have the telephone and the shop lights (2tubes) running off a extension panel (5 plugins) like you'd see in a office for office machines. There is also one of those tin clip on lights with a 75 watt bulb running off that strip. If I try and run the SS with my 330 it will trip the breaker too. I run it off another circuit.