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Reviving this thread

Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:16 pm
by fiatben
because I'm interested to see if this actually worked out for someone. There used to be a salvage place around here that sold stuff cheap. I doubt it exists anymore.

Also, the extended lathe stuff was interesting and something to keep in the back of my mind if the situation ever arises.

Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:02 pm
by gilamonster
billmayo wrote:I was using a home made speed reducer to get the RPM below 250 RPM.

I'd like to hear about the home-made speed reducer!!!

Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:08 pm
by gilamonster
also, my 1956 Greenie apparently has (slightly surface) rust on the bench tubes, but apparently the way tubes are stainless, because there has never been any rusting or pitting on them, with no more care than occasional waxing so the carriages slide smoothly.

Is that unusual?

Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:50 pm
by JPG
gilamonster wrote:also, my 1956 Greenie apparently has (slightly surface) rust on the bench tubes, but apparently the way tubes are stainless, because there has never been any rusting or pitting on them, with no more care than occasional waxing so the carriages slide smoothly.

Is that unusual?

Your bench tubes were originally painted. I believe they are different steel also. Since the way tubes need to be protected and 'lubricated' waxing is an obvious thing to do to them. In the case of the painted bench tubes - not so much!

FWIW, the Greenie bench tubes are 1 7/8"(larger than the way tubes[1 3/4"]).

Poor Man's Speed Reducer

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 8:23 am
by billmayo
gilamonster wrote:I'd like to hear about the home-made speed reducer!!!
I took a Gilmer Drive headstock and removed the broken Gilmer belt. A really cheap headstock on a MINI Shopsmith. I installed a 1 1/2" V-belt pulley (machined ID to 5/8") on the idler shaft and the largest V-belt pulley (believe it was around 8"-9") that had a long hub on the drive sleeve shaft that would fit. I installed a second set screw on the larger pulley's hub side that did not have one. I used a 5/8" ID to 3/4" OD insert drilled for the set screws. I used a link belt and added a 5/8" OD stub shaft and drive hub to the top pulley so I could still drive a SPT. I used the eccentric bushing to provide some belt tension. I believe this gave me around 200-225 RPM at the slowest speed. I had removed the belt housing when first using this set-up but put it back on later. It was not a pretty sight but worked. I had planned to make a belt guard for these pulleys but never got around to it. Once, I reversed the pulleys and used the headstock to check the quill and drive sleeve bearings at 12,000-15,000 RPM until they got real noisely. I tried several makes of bearings to determine the best headstock bearings for higher speeds.

I used this headstock to drive my bandsaw which I used to cut aluminum and metal material. I finally brought 2 metal cutting bandsaws, one for steel and one for aluminum. Then, I sold the headstock (no belt guard) after 5 years of use to a customer to use for bowl turning.

Re: Replacing tubes with stainless pipe

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 8:44 pm
by johnwilliamson062
Did anyone ever follow through on this? I have retrieved my two Shopsmiths from storage and they acquired a good patina the last few years.

Re: Replacing tubes with stainless pipe

Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 11:02 am
by everettdavis
You can fix that with Evaporust.

Use a 2 inch PVC Pipe capped on one end, and threaded plug on the other just long enough to fit inside.

Insert way or bench tube, then insert a smaller capped PVC pipe in the center of it to cut down on the liquid volume to fill the larger pipe with Evaporust.

(I filled the smaller pipe with sand to keep it from floating and to simplify adding the Evaporust)

Several of mine took less than 3 hours, and the Evaporust was reclaimed and reused. A few took overnight.

Really a simple deal after you get set up for it.

I suspect that I will some day make up three more so I can do a full set of Way and Bench tubes at one time. PVC is really inexpensive

Everett

Re: Replacing tubes with stainless pipe

Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 9:10 pm
by JPG
everettdavis wrote:You can fix that with Evaporust.

Use a 2 inch PVC Pipe capped on one end, and threaded plug on the other just long enough to fit inside.

Insert way or bench tube, then insert a smaller capped PVC pipe in the center of it to cut down on the liquid volume to fill the larger pipe with Evaporust.

(I filled the smaller pipe with sand to keep it from floating and to simplify adding the Evaporust)

Several of mine took less than 3 hours, and the Evaporust was reclaimed and reused. A few took overnight.

Really a simple deal after you get set up for it.

I suspect that I will some day make up three more so I can do a full set of Way and Bench tubes at one time. PVC is really inexpensive

Everett
Good Boy!!!!! :cool:

Re:

Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 7:58 am
by garys
jhall423 wrote: Tired of cleaning rust.
I have had my Shopsmith since 1988. My Dad bought it new in 1984. It has never had any rust on the tubes or any other metal parts. Neither of us ever stored it outdoors, and storing it in the shop prevents all rust for us. I even kept it in an unheated garage in my Arctic-like climate for 15 of those winters with no rust forming on it.
How do you get yours rusty?

Re: Re:

Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2016 8:40 pm
by oldiron
garys wrote:
jhall423 wrote: Tired of cleaning rust.
I have had my Shopsmith since 1988. My Dad bought it new in 1984. It has never had any rust on the tubes or any other metal parts. Neither of us ever stored it outdoors, and storing it in the shop prevents all rust for us. I even kept it in an unheated garage in my Arctic-like climate for 15 of those winters with no rust forming on it.
How do you get yours rusty?
What is the average summertime humidity in Bismark?

Mike