Shopsmith Forums

Yes

These setups are visually just so cool. They look very puckering, but I wonder how dangerous they were given a proper setup and understanding.

The floor saw (as I'm now calling it), you'd think it would pinch on exit, and you'd be guaranteed some serious snipe as a best case scenario.

Is there anyone alive who has actually done, tried, or even seen it? I'm not bold enough, but I secretly wish someone recreated these in video form for the modern world, even if it's just to say "don't do it".

Maurice,

My thoughts exactly when I saw that old Shop Notes. Of course that was a different time and one used what equipment was available to them at the time. I certainly hope we have advanced in the 8 decades or so since that Shop Notes was published, both in equipment and safety features but hopefully also better practices today. Not trying to be the safety police or anything here, but I just prefer doing less risky operations in my shop when I can. I had a couple of kickbacks many years ago on my Shopsmith equipment. Now that I know the how and why of kickbacks, I haven't had another one...hopefully this trend continues. My point is I wish that everyone could start out in woodworking knowing all of the best practices and steps to take to keep them safe in their shops.

I posted both of those Shop Notes entries not to suggest anyone use them but as has been pointed out there are much better and SAFER ways to do those cuts. As for the Vertical Sawing it can be accomplished in normal Table Saw mode and with the same number of helpers needed to attempt it vertically. There is less danger of kick back and the Upper Saw Guard, for Model 10's or the complete Saw Guard set, for Marks, can be used to protect against accidental Saw Blade contact in the normal horizontal Table Saw position. The Upper Saw Blade Guards also have a Splitter as part of the assembly. No matter what Table Saw you are using always have enough helpers to safely guide large stock into and out of the saw.

Since I mentioned Saw Guards, the Model 10E and 10ER did not come with a Lower Saw Guard but it was an option. Not very many were sold so they are a rare item. An option for a Lower Saw Guard to use on Model 10's is the one shown below made for the Mark 5 as early as the 1970's. You can include the Upper Saw Guard and use as a set. This has a 2-1/2" Dust Collection port which the original Model 10 Lower Saw Guard doesn't with its square dust chute.

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Yes, this original 8" Saw Blade is mounted backwards to show the Shopsmith name.

Don't worry I (probably) won't try any of them. I might set it up just see, but cutting seems too risky, and I have a tracksaw/router for many of these safer setups.

Russ - you know what's funny. That is almost my exact 1983 setup (splitter and lower guard) on my Mark V 500. But - this is the first ever modern photo I have seen of it properly setup. I have looked and there are almost no modern day photos, and certainly no videos, of anyone using it. I haven't even been able to set mine up to see how it looks/works because the spindle is out while I'm replacing bearings.

Thanks for posting!

Follow-up on the "cup center in the fence hole" issue:

Maurice - I tried my live center in the hole in the fence and found no difference between the way it fit and the way the cup center fit. Both centers wobble around in the non-tapered hole. Not sure why your live center would fit so snugly. If one really wants a pivot point that fits snug, it seem like it would be an easy job to make one from a section of 5/8" dowel and in that way avoid any worry about problems caused by tipping.

John - Here is a photo of the cup center in use as the pivot point of a circular arc. The center is clearly tipped towards the set screw side of the fence, yet there is still plenty of clearance between the center and the workpiece. I think the set up would work just as well with less of the pin inserted in the work, which would increase the clearance even further. Here is a picture that shows the full arrangement.
And another that shows the result Conclusions: Even with the cup center being pulled to one side and not vertical, it worked just fine as a center. JPG is correct to point out that this set-up will not work on the table saw. I tried. Really doesn't work. I think it could be made to work if the intended circle or arc was reduced to a many sided polygon before taking it to the table saw, but then why bother with the saw when the sanding disk will do the job and leave a smooth surface. So...I would not hesitate to use this set-up to finish sand an oversize circular workpiece. ..with the understanding that very light passes across the sanding disk will be needed. To create the arc shown in the photo I first used a hand saw to rough out the curve and then passed it across the sanding disk half dozen or so times, extending the quill a small amount between each pass.

Maurice,

Do note that the Upper and Lower Saw Blade Guard set (P/N 505627 & 505628) are on my Model 10ER not a Mark V. I actually don't have a picture of that Saw Blade Guard set on a Mark V. This Guard set is easy to set up and once aligned it can be removed and re-installed keeping the alignment.

Ahh it's a 10ER I didn't realize, no worries. That means I've still never seen a modern setup ha. No worires I'm hoping mine is up and running int he next week or two so I can finally play around with it properly.

Sorry, we have gone a little astray from the original topic.

Just one last thing to mention about this Saw Blade Guard set is I see them for sale on the used market but some with part(s) missing. The part in the red circle is called the "shoe" which is sometimes missing. Without it the upper guard is worthless as the shoe lifts the upper guard up over the stock being cut.

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The Stop Rod partially seen at the bottom of the lower guard above aligns the lower guard when the Stop Rod is against the rear Way Tube. This part is sometimes missing but without it the guard is still functional.

Below is the Shoe itself.

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Thanks for all of the reply's everyone. I bought a blade guard without the shoe and just purchased a metal dowel in the correct size at Home Depot to make my own. It is an easy fix.