Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:55 pm
Hi Chuck,
See you are still trying to get your digs in on those .001" tools.
The tool is very well able to do the adjustment but when trying to do a simple template you would be spinning your tires (even making a template can be done if you have a way of printing it out to scale). The tools simple construction is to keep every thing on a 1/32" spacing over its total length all with in .001". This also allows you to do half your box joints today and come back months later and set up with in .001" of where you were and finish the joints with them being no more then .001" or so off. Or perhaps months later you drop one of the pieces and it cracks in half... no problem to set up and make another piece that will fit just like the original. That along with all the other functions it does is why you spend the big $$.
What we are talking about here is how much easier it is to replace an oversized bit rather then have to deal with stepping .005". This is the same issue I worked with for a while when using a thin kerf blade in saw mode. Here the blade was one I had purchased some years back with a kerf of .109. Yes the blade worked but it was not on the 1/32" grid so I would have to micro adjust after each cut. If the blade had been .125" (4/32) wide or even .093" (3/32) it would have fallen on grid. I added a new blade to take car of that issue.
The important thing is to know how your tools work, this is an on going process for all of us so as we encounter new issues we attempt to solve them, many times with a little help from our friends and we learn. In some cases it is easier to spend some money and get the right blade or other times a different tool or method for the project, it is the right way to go.
Ed
See you are still trying to get your digs in on those .001" tools.
The tool is very well able to do the adjustment but when trying to do a simple template you would be spinning your tires (even making a template can be done if you have a way of printing it out to scale). The tools simple construction is to keep every thing on a 1/32" spacing over its total length all with in .001". This also allows you to do half your box joints today and come back months later and set up with in .001" of where you were and finish the joints with them being no more then .001" or so off. Or perhaps months later you drop one of the pieces and it cracks in half... no problem to set up and make another piece that will fit just like the original. That along with all the other functions it does is why you spend the big $$.
What we are talking about here is how much easier it is to replace an oversized bit rather then have to deal with stepping .005". This is the same issue I worked with for a while when using a thin kerf blade in saw mode. Here the blade was one I had purchased some years back with a kerf of .109. Yes the blade worked but it was not on the 1/32" grid so I would have to micro adjust after each cut. If the blade had been .125" (4/32) wide or even .093" (3/32) it would have fallen on grid. I added a new blade to take car of that issue.
The important thing is to know how your tools work, this is an on going process for all of us so as we encounter new issues we attempt to solve them, many times with a little help from our friends and we learn. In some cases it is easier to spend some money and get the right blade or other times a different tool or method for the project, it is the right way to go.
Ed
charlese wrote:Hmmm - Can't resist stating an observation. I may be wrong, but it appears this thread is discussing an expensive jig that is adjustable to the nearest .001", but you can't adjust it that closely from where it was set.
Is this a valid observation?
