Shopsmith Forums

Mike what you are missing is a few simple pieces. First you need a auxiliary fence, that being a piece as long and tall as the fence with the t-nuts to hold it to the real fence. Then when you want an offset fence you simply put a shim in near one of the ends which will off set the auxiliary fence from the real fence.... bingo you have the same thing you had with the older 500/510 fence.

If you don't want to mess with shims you could of course cut the taper right on the auxiliary fence part itself... Make sure you mark it as you will not want to use it for other operations.

Ed

tryinhard wrote:I was just reading about sanding disks, and found out that the 520 fence does not provide the setscrew that angles the fence for edge sanding using the flat 12" sanding disk. It seems to me that this results in the sanding disk can only be used for freehand sanding (like curves or rounding edges), end-grain sanding and tool sharpening, and that true edge sanding can only be accomplished with a conical disk. But, I figure this can't be right.

Would you guys explain what I am missing?

Thanks, Mike

On the general subject one might want to look at "Board buddies" you can check them out at:
http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W1104-B ... 124&sr=8-1

Ed

tryinhard wrote:I was just reading about sanding disks, and found out that the 520 fence does not provide the setscrew that angles the fence for edge sanding using the flat 12" sanding disk. It seems to me that this results in the sanding disk can only be used for freehand sanding (like curves or rounding edges), end-grain sanding and tool sharpening, and that true edge sanding can only be accomplished with a conical disk. But, I figure this can't be right.
Thanks, Mike

My $0.0025 (adjusted for inflation) on the old edge sanding thing: I used it a fair amount and it was good, but I gotta say the Conical method is way safer and easier and does a better job. (Just need to remember it's ~3 degrees, not 4.)

reible wrote: If you don't want to mess with shims you could of course cut the taper right on the auxiliary fence part itself... Make sure you mark it as you will not want to use it for other operations.
Ed

A very nice solution. Sher beats shims.

reible wrote:On the general subject one might want to look at "Board buddies" you can check them out at:
http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W1104-B ... 124&sr=8-1
Ed

"Board buddies"

Wow. Those reviews are, uh, interesting. ("plastic"?!) I think the value of my R-S just went way up.
It does sound like the primary purpose of anti-kickback works well.

I never thought of using a device like the BB's or R-S for edge sanding w/ flat sanding disc. Interesting thought, as there is a bit of a potential hazard feeding narrow pieces past the rear half of the disc.
hmm...

Keakap,

Thanks for mentioning three degrees. After hearing "four degrees" everywhere, I thought there was something wrong with mine since everytime I set it up, the scale said three degrees.

tryinhard wrote:Keakap,

Thanks for mentioning three degrees. After hearing "four degrees" everywhere, I thought there was something wrong with mine since everytime I set it up, the scale said three degrees.

You're welcome.
I "discovered" the discrepancy when I discovered my table vernier setting was off but the conical was working perfectly at "4 degrees".

I don't understand why that error has not been corrected, anywhere as far as I have seen.

The object is to get the face of the conical disk set to 90 degrees with the surface of the table. Unless you happen to be trying to put on a slight bevel. Why do you look at the vernier at all. Why don't you just use a square between the table and disk.

BigSky wrote:The object is to get the face of the conical disk set to 90 degrees with the surface of the table. Unless you happen to be trying to put on a slight bevel. Why do you look at the vernier at all. Why don't you just use a square between the table and disk.

With experience comes wisdom.

I always use a square to set the table to the disk. But when I first did the setup, and the table vernier read almost right at three degrees, I figured something was wrong somewhere. I spent time checking alignments and scratching my head as to why, when all the literature and the videos say the disk is set to four degrees, mine kept indicating it was three degrees. I finally gave up wonderin' and figured I got a quality-control reject. I also figured my disk was a problem since I can't get the sandpaper edges to meet when I install them on the disk (there is about a 1/16 inch gap). It was nice to find that it just wasn't my disk.