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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:34 am
by dusty
mickyd wrote:Hope this helps. You can see that a system NEEDS both good accuracy AND good repeatability.
[ATTACH]5990[/ATTACH]
Great diagram. Superb communication.
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:37 am
by dusty
kalynzoo wrote:Received my V120 yesterday, set it up today, and I'm thrilled.
But I do understand your question.
First, the new SS hand grip is much nicer than the grip that came with my SS 510 on purchase. Also the V120 ends the problem I have been having with the miter slipping under pressure. So for my use I am quite happy.
However, after reading your question I took my engineering square from the table to the miter at zero. There is an imperceptible space..."almost square" This will be fine for most woodwork. It would not be acceptable for machinist work and in ballistics, you might miss the moon.
I think the strength of the V120 is repeatability. The tooth locking miter will give repeatable results.
I'm a happy camper.
After reading this, I had to go check mine again. The face, on mine, is not perfectly square to the table top either. But it is much closer than either of my Shopsmith miter gauges and they were never a problem.
I am still quite pleased with the latest addition to my tool list.
With this, a Wixey and the MiterSet, I am guaranteed to never make another unsquare cross cut. What more could you ask?
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:39 pm
by mickyd
mickyd wrote:Hope this helps. You can see that a system NEEDS both good accuracy AND good repeatability.
Accuracy, repeatability, precision.pdf
FYI - Most folks have difficulties seeing the lower left target on pg 2 of the pdf as an "accurate" system since the bulls-eye was never hit but it IS considered accurate since the AVERAGE is close to the center. It just has poor REPEATABILITY.
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:53 pm
by keakap
JPG40504 wrote:
I think we need to define WHAT we mean by 19º.
"taper" cut?
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:04 pm
by keakap
In the "Well I'll be..." Dept.-- Sure enough, checked mine, table to face square, and it is also about a billionth of a degree off. Then I realized I'd never thought to check this before. Then I realized I had no reason to even now.
Re-filed in the "So what" Dept.
;-)
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:36 pm
by beeg
JPG40504 wrote:Mine all go from 90º ± 60º or through a 120º range which I believe IS the same as the "V120".
I think we need to define WHAT we mean by 19º.
Like 11° less than what's on the guage. 71° LESS than 90°.
19º and other odd cuts
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:10 pm
by jimthej
My concern when I read this was not for a malfunctioning miter. Having grown up with a slide rule stuffed up my nose, I don't even think about how to interpolate the marks on a gauge to arrive at any specific degree or fraction. At the high school I work at, I doubt there are 5 students outside of those in the 2nd semester of wood, metal or drafting that have been taught that skill. I would venture to place a small amount of money or a donut that most of the staff under 40 could not do it.
Do we need to create some kind of tutorial on reading gauges and making settings using the vernier scales on the SS?
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:23 pm
by JPG
beeg wrote:Like 11°]
HOW is the v120 going to help THAT?
To actually DO that, first cut a 45º 'adapter'. then put the 'adapter' against the mitergauge, and adjust it to '64º'. put the workpiece against the 'adapter' and the resultant cut angle will be 19º.
Be careful, the shallow angle makes holding all this difficult anf prone to slipping.
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 4:08 am
by dusty
JPG40504 wrote:HOW is the v120 going to help THAT?
To actually DO that, first cut a 45º 'adapter'. then put the 'adapter' against the mitergauge, and adjust it to '64º'. put the workpiece against the 'adapter' and the resultant cut angle will be 19º.
Be careful, the shallow angle makes holding all this difficult anf prone to slipping.
Pictures please!!
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:36 pm
by keakap
I'm curious: at what point does a "miter" cut become a "taper" cut?