Yeah, BUT! that screw works for slop removal!JPG40504 wrote:The purpose of that tapered 'screw' is to LOCK the bar in a desired position. It was not intended to be used as a 'slop eliminator'. It is of some use for slop removal, but due to its location and being only one it still has a tendency to rotate at various locations along the slot. Do not overlook the pivot screw. If loose, the 'head' can wobble considerably.
Miter Guage Alternatives
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Incra V120 Shopsmith model, very pleased
While the standard shopsmith miter guage is more than adequate for most general cutting it does have some wiggle room from side to side in the table track. Even after performing all adjustments (MarkV manual pgs c27, C28) I have always had some side to side play between the miter bar and the table miter slot. After looking at the Incra V120 and its four lateral adjustment screws I decided to pony up and buy it. It is easy to assemble, and cuts were dead on accurate to the degree when compared against a Starrett Vernier protractor. With the four lateral adjustments it was simple to square & align while at the same time removing all side play between the miter track and miter bar. Kudus to Incra and Shopsmith for partnering.
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
Sorry but I can't help chuckling a little at these threads.
They remind me of two things... one is all of those hours I have spent in huge office supply stores prowling the aisles dreaming that I am going to find something that is going to finally make me "organized".
The other is a guy I know that is accuracy obsessed. It makes the rustic birdhouses he makes look real nice.

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Having said that, Incra does make some really nice stuff...


The other is a guy I know that is accuracy obsessed. It makes the rustic birdhouses he makes look real nice.


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Having said that, Incra does make some really nice stuff...
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Happy to see this thread brought back to life.
Just finished reading in the newest Popular Woodworking Mag. - in the "Tips of the Trade" section. "Remove Play from Miter Gauge":
Wrap 4 pieces of masking tape, in 4 locations along the bar, across the top and one side of the miter bar, then wax the tape. Do not stick the tape on the bottom nor on the other side of the bar. If the bar is still loose another application of tape may be needed over one or more of the original tapes.
Just finished reading in the newest Popular Woodworking Mag. - in the "Tips of the Trade" section. "Remove Play from Miter Gauge":
Wrap 4 pieces of masking tape, in 4 locations along the bar, across the top and one side of the miter bar, then wax the tape. Do not stick the tape on the bottom nor on the other side of the bar. If the bar is still loose another application of tape may be needed over one or more of the original tapes.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA