Who can suggest the best workbench?

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 8:15 pm

Workbenches -- interesting topic!

I made my own workbench with 2 main criteria: (1.) Use recycled wood as much as possible, and (2.) Make it dimensionally able to go up the staircase if I ever have to move it out of the basement. Maybe I'll post a picture sometime, but it is all made out of junk except for a Rockler wood front-vise. The side-vise was salvaged off of a kid's workbench in a trash pile.

Regarding the comments on sizing your bench to your projects, very appropriate. Early with my Mark V I would go for fairly big stuff, like my computer desk I made. More recently, I am making or restoring smaller things. They fit into my work-schedule better, and they don't cost as much for raw materials. I've actually dusted off the workbench (which had become a storage area) and started using a handplane and chisels more than I used to. My habits no doubt will change again at some unpredictable time.

Anyway, can't wait to see yours!

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:56 pm

nomoman wrote:I liked that little lift in the pictures of the snack tray cabinet (sorry can't remember the o.p. name)

Sorry, don't know what a o.p. name is, but it is called a Scissor Lift Table. It comes in real handy in my shop when building a project. It is used for holding a partially done carcass, up through the completion. It is handy for raising a heavy project for ease in sanding, finishing, etc. It also is easy to roll around in order to get the carcass out of the way, while building another part. Right now it is being used to hold a convertible coffee table project. (3ft X 4ft.)

The Scissor lift was given to me as a birthday present from my Son. I'm sure he got it a Harbor Freight. I have seen the same lift table in their adds, until now!!!! HF now has a different model that sells for $175

(used to sell for about $105) I don't really care for the hand release lever mounted on the push bar.

One of the features I really like about the one I have is the push bar can be easily removed to allow for several feet of hangover on both ends of the table. The hydraulic release in a foot pedal.

The closest table to the one I have is http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... _200365546 It sells for $140.

Maybe HF will again get their cheaper model in stock!

navycop · Post by **navycop** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:03 am

charlese wrote:Sorry, don't know what a o.p. name is, but it is called a Scissor Lift Table.

O.P. means: Original Poster. The person that origianlly posted whatever it is you are referancing. Instead of writing thier name, you just put OP.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:33 am

No one design I think is best, but there are things I've learned using varous benches and tables and such for various projects. Here's some of the things I've learned.

1. Solid. Having a wiggle free work surface is almost invaluable.

2. Immovable. As in something I can push against and not have it go sliding across the shop.

3. Dedicated. Mixing wood and greasy car parts and such is always a disaster.

4. Smooth. I can clean it, I can rest things on it uniformly.

5. Large. I have never found a workbench too large, but I have found many too small.

6. Recessed. Any attachment point or socket should be recessed, so the surface stays smooth.

7. Hard. I don't like dents, chips, divots or other surface imperfections.

8. Organized. I'm not talking about drawers for drills or hooks for saws. I'm talking about wood vice locations matching with dog holes. Dog hole spacing matching wood vice travel. Clever extension rails that stow invisibly. Matching accessory sockets. Etc.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:45 am

thebear wrote:I have been considering building a bench that would adjust heights. So I wouldn't have to lean over as much, and I could use it to be an out feed or an in feed table to my SS. I have been talking with the designer and the plans should be done in a few weeks. Go to www.jack-bench.com and tell me what you think.

An interesting feature of that bench is the adjustable height, shown in this video. The page also describes some of the mechanics behind it.

Having little woodworking experience, I wonder if the height adjustment would be overkill on a workbench or is it would be a valuable feature?

Sure looks like a rugged, but maybe pricey workbench.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:53 am

Just found this bench from the woodwhisperer. 10 minute video

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-18-assembly-table-torsion-box/

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 2:07 pm

mickyd wrote:Just found this bench from the woodwhisperer. 10 minute video

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-18-assembly-table-torsion-box/

Mike,
This is not an actual "Work Bench", per se. It is an assembly table. It doesn't have vises and is built perfectly flat for the assembly of your projects.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 2:37 pm

curiousgeorge wrote:Mike,
This is not an actual "Work Bench", per se. It is an assembly table. It doesn't have vises and is built perfectly flat for the assembly of your projects.

Ya, I realized that after I posted. I had fast forwarded through a good portion of the video just scanning visually for general content and I missed the whole concept of the main purpose for this type of bench. I clicked on the design plan pdf file and saw a few neat ideas and BAM, I posted.....

Oh well, interesting video anyway.

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 10:14 pm

It is easy to get caught up in that ultimate bench hype. As has been mentioned, a flat stable surface is important. We all have different work styles and projects so the ideal will vary. Here is my bench...
[ATTACH]6205[/ATTACH]
A double row of bench dog holes would be a big improvement and my next bench will have this feature. The tool tray on the back edge is also a handy feature. It helps keep your carving tools from rolling or getting knocked off the bench. It does catch debris but this is a minor nuisance. I installed the plywood shelf on the lower rails to increase my storage capacity. The stuff there does get covered with shavings and I may put doors over the front one day. One advantage of storing things in this manner, the additional weight helps to keep the bench in place. Most benches now use round holes for the bench dogs, a big improvement over the rectangular ones.

The bench in FWW 139 is interesting and while I do like the front rail system I'm not sure how often I would use it. The top seems a highly complicated and less stable substitute for a end vise and bench dogs. I think it would be worth springing for the extra cost of the vise. There are a lot of work holding options available for use with standard bench dog holes.

For me, variable bench height is pretty unimportant. The bench does need to be at a comfortable height but once you get this set I doubt you will change it. There are good rules of thumb in some of the bench building books and if needed I can try to dig this info up.

Troy

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 12:02 am

reible wrote:Hi,

I guess I would have to ask "why a classic work bench"? The work bench I built as a prototype many many years ago is now a storage bench. Its prime years were when I did a lot of work using hand tools, you know hand saws, planes, chisels and brace and bits, for when you need the many ways of clamping to hold things solid while you remove wood. The heights of these benches is normally lower so that you can these tools and as such limits it usefulness for other uses.

If it were me I would take a step towards building a multi-use work area or two.

I'd opt for an assembly table, torsion top perhaps and on wheels with the ability to have the legs sitting on the floor for better stability. This would also serve as work bench so a replaceable top of maybe mdf or ??? would make sense. If you want to add a vice or two just do it. Add a place to mount a lazy susan perhaps for finishing smaller items... think of it as a very utilitarian shop item.

As a secondary "bench" I'd go with a taller bench that you don't have to bend over to do things at. This would be great for laying out patterns on wood and other things that need to be done like tool tune-ups and the like.

You might also look into the workmate line of portable benches and or the jaw horse type system to supplement your needs.

If however you are looking to make a more of a show bench then that is a whole other thing. BTW I have know people who have done this, they have literary made it to pretty to use.

Ed

I totally agree!

I also agree the classic workbench while a show piece in many shops is really not the best for today's woodworkers. New techniques and some of the new ideas that are entering woodworking I believe are making the classic workbench a dinosaurs.

There so many unique and really useful clamping options, assembly options and new construction methods that the old bench really isn't the best suited for the job.

I would look into some of the options Ed listed above before I went to the expense and time to construct an old style wood working bench.

Again if you want a show piece then yes you need to build the classic bench but short of that there are far better options out there.

Also don't lock yourselve into a immoval bench, new technologies in casters has made it possible to wheel a bench all over the shop but still be able to lock it into one place.