Shopsmith Forums

Here are some pics after removing the headstock from the ways. For the most part the internals seem to be in excellent shape. Belts look perfect:D . Definitely needs disassembling for a complete clean and shine!!

Regards

Eric

cat_couple wrote:Here are some pics after removing the headstock from the ways. For the most part the internals seem to be in excellent shape. Belts look perfect:D . Definitely needs disassembling for a complete clean and shine!!

Regards

Eric

FWIW......In the second pic, it looks like the Poly V belt is in the third groove. If I remember correctly it is supposed to be in the second groove from the switch for your vintage headstock. It is supposed to be in the third groove for the current version of the headstock.

Did some more dismantling of the headstock on Thanksgiving morning:D and these are a few pics of the condition of the speed changer gear as I dismantled. The only issue I encountered was of of my own stupidity:eek: and that was during the dismantling of the floating sheave from the motor. I had the spring under control as I loosened the snap ring and then my hand slipped and the spring, washer and snap ring went flying:eek: . I retrieved the spring, and the snap ring, but the washer is MIA, so I am tearing the shop apart to find it.

Eric

cat_couple wrote:Did some more dismantling of the headstock on Thanksgiving morning:D and these are a few pics of the condition of the speed changer gear as I dismantled. The only issue I encountered was of of my own stupidity:eek: and that was during the dismantling of the floating sheave from the motor. I had the spring under control as I loosened the snap ring and then my hand slipped and the spring, washer and snap ring went flying:eek: . I retrieved the spring, and the snap ring, but the washer is MIA, so I am tearing the shop apart to find it.

Eric

I recommend copying these 25 maintenance procedures to your computer and a disc for future use:
http://www.allinonewood.com/?page=shop/serviceadvisor

Althrough this information is a few years old, there are many helpful suggestions like how to remove and install the motor spring.

SDSSmith wrote:FWIW......In the second pic, it looks like the Poly V belt is in the third groove. If I remember correctly it is supposed to be in the second groove from the switch for your vintage headstock. It is supposed to be in the third groove for the current version of the headstock.

There be some 'confusion' regarding when the poly-v belt should be in the second or third groove. IMHO a critical eye determining which provides the better alignment with the idler shaft pulley is the better 'answer'. Both the idler shaft and the upper shaft need to be properly installed(positioned).

JPG40504 wrote:There be some 'confusion' regarding when the poly-v belt should be in the second or third groove. IMHO a critical eye determining which provides the better alignment with the idler shaft pulley is the better 'answer'. Both the idler shaft and the upper shaft need to be properly installed(positioned).

I believe the removable Drive Sleeve pulley with the set screw has the Poly-V belt starting 2 grooves from the front and the later one piece Drive Sleeve pulley/shaft Poly-V belt placement starting 3 grooves from the front. This is where I start.

If you look straight down the side of the Poly-V belt from the top of the headstock and slowly turn the quill shaft toward the front (same as normal rotation), I can see if the belt budges out on either side (only on one side) as it approaches the idler sheave pulley. This is very noticable to me as I always look for this belt budge when installing a Poly-V belt. To start, I tighten the setscrew in the eccentric bushing with the eccentric bushing and idler shaft bearing are even with the back of the headstock housing and againest the washer and screw above the eccentric bushing. I do not tighten the bolt that secures the eccentric bushing. I turn the eccentric bushing enough only to take the loosness (approx. 3/8"-1/2" deflection) from the belt, not to set the belt tension. I move/tap (rubber hammer) the idler shaft inward until the budge goes away while turning the quill. If the end of the eccentric bushing/idler shaft bearing is more than one pulley groove wide into the headstock, I start over again with the Poly-V belt 3 grooves on the Drive Sleeve pulley from the front. If the budge increases doing the above, then I go the other way. This may only work with a new or a good used belt as I do this task automatically without thinking when repairing/rebuilding any headstock. Then set the belt tension and tighten the eccentric bushing bolt.

JPG40504 wrote:There be some 'confusion' regarding when the poly-v belt should be in the second or third groove. IMHO a critical eye determining which provides the better alignment with the idler shaft pulley is the better 'answer'. Both the idler shaft and the upper shaft need to be properly installed(positioned).

I find the directions provided by Shopsmith to be straight forward. Reference section 2 on page 4 of the following:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/prod ... cement.pdf

Hope this helps.

SDSSmith wrote:
I find the directions provided by Shopsmith to be straight forward. Reference section 2 on page 4 of the following:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals/PolyV_GilmerBelt_Replacement.pdf

Hope this helps.

At least it nails down how to determine when it is 2 and when it is 3!

Is it also true that the access hole under the 'swiveling' name plate is larger than the earlier ones?

What year/sn did the swiveling start?

Well to update all;

Sorry for the delay in posting, but I was working a job that allowed me no off time, and that wasn't going to do, so with some ecouragement from the Government, and my family, I am headed back to School. As far as the progress of the 510 goes, I will take pics tomorrow and will post what I have completed. I have completely stripped the headstock to parade rest and cleaned and inspected each and every part. I painted the headstock csating and the motor pan Rustoleum Hammered Black and the rear cover Hammered Silver. I have repainted the speed control handle, and the insert medallino and fine sanded the brushed parts but left a little of the brushing as i like that look, and clear coated them. I have also wire brushed and clear coated all of the lock handles and the quill handle as well. I have only one bearing that I am questioning, and that is on the drive sheave. It spins extremely freely, but unlike the others, you can hear the balls in it. All of the others are silent, so I am tempted to replace it whilst in the unit so far. Does anyone have any take on this? Got a new 10 gage cord and a 20 amp switch and a bottle of zoom spout turbine oil, just have to find a cord retainer and then enlarge the bottom hole in the motor pan. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Best regards

Eric

This all sounds really great, Eric. I am anxious to see what you have done.

One comment though. I believe that a 10ga power cord is a bit much. A 12ga cord is more than sufficient.