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Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:34 pm
by a1gutterman
Mike,

You can use the SS with a router bit and a 1/4" chuck and shield, or a 1/2" chuck and shield, or you can buy the 1/2" pair with router bitstoo. Then you can still say that you made it all with your SS's. You can also buy the bits separately (and the chucks can be bought without the shield, but I wood knot recommend it). In my experience, the router will do a smoother job then the dado blade. :)

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:58 pm
by charlese
Mike - After looking over the PDF - I fully agree with shipwright's and nuhobby's recommendations. IMHO there is no need for a dado blade on this project. You can do it all with your saw blade.

Some of the pieces are pretty small. Where duplicate parts are used, it would be a good idea to saw the dados/grooves on larger pieces and then slice off the smaller ones. For example; where the different sized lanterns all have a rabbet on the top - you could make one rabbet on a wider piece and then rip to make separate pieces, then cut to size.

Let's keep things smooth on the home front!!!!!:)

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:22 am
by swampgator
In Lowe's today, they have a nice set of 8" dado with a nice case for $50. Nice little set for a few uses and the blades can be resharpened. Might be worth your time to investigate. :)

The old swampgator

Edit: These blades look exactly like the HF set but has a wooden case with post to keep blades, chippers and shims. The name is Mibro and I used mine for the first time yesterday. Wonderful results in pine.

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:45 am
by iclark
do not forget that you need to get an arbor for whatever dado set you get if you go that way.

I don't know why I expected one to be included in a dado set sold by SS:rolleyes:

Ivan

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:39 am
by nomoman
This was taken from the SS 1/2" chuck with shield
Made specifically to handle the side thrust associated with Routing and similar types of woodworking operations, it features two setscrews to grip your MARK V’s spindle firmly and a third setscrew to grip your Bit.

CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to perform routing or similar side thrust operations
with your 1/2” drill chuck, as this will damage your Chuck.
Please explain to me why the (red) says one thing and the (blue) says another?

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:41 am
by a1gutterman
nomoman wrote:This was taken from the SS 1/2" chuck with shield
Made specifically to handle the side thrust associated with Routing and similar types of woodworking operations, it features two setscrews to grip your MARK V&#8217]Do NOT attempt to perform routing or similar side thrust operations [/color]
with your 1/2” drill chuck, as this will damage your Chuck.
Please explain to me why the (red) says one thing and the (blue) says another?
The red is talking about the router chuckand the blue is referring to the drill chuck. :)

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:45 am
by lv2wdwrk
nomoman wrote:This was taken from the SS 1/2" chuck with shield
Made specifically to handle the side thrust associated with Routing and similar types of woodworking operations, it features two setscrews to grip your MARK V’s spindle firmly and a third setscrew to grip your Bit.

CAUTION: Do NOT attempt to perform routing or similar side thrust operations
with your 1/2” drill chuck, as this will damage your Chuck.
Please explain to me why the (red) says one thing and the (blue) says another?
Red is for the router chuck & blue is for the drill chuck.

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 2:09 am
by mickyd
Went to a glass and mirror shop here in San Diego to locate the lantern glass. The plans called it 'cord glass'. The guy looked at the plan photo and called it 'spectrum cord glass'. Told him I needed 4" x 60" for the project. He told me it only comes in full sheets from the manufacturer. The bad news....a full sheet is 60" x 84" (5' x 7') and costs $296.77.:eek: The good news.......they had just completed work on someones yacht using the same material and had a partial 30" x 72" sheet left over in his inventory. From that, he said he'd sell me just what I needed at 6 cents per square inch. This works out to about $15 for my 4" x 60" strip. They would cut the strip into the 12 sized pieces for another $15. I'll cut it myself and pocket the money.

The copper shim stock for the motifs runs about $20 +tax and shipping if I have to get it from McMaster-Carr. Smallest piece they have is 6" x 25" which is way too much. I'll have to check at the local hobby shops for something more reasonable.

For the mahogany, plan calls for 21' of 1/2" x 1/4" planed. Good news....GOT IT, courtesy mrcabinetmakers scrap pile. Problem...it's a block of 8" x 3-1/2" x 3/4". It will have to be resawn and planed. I'll have to see if I can negotiate some kind of labor deal with SDSSmith.:D

Thanks all for the options both with and around the dado blade. I have to digest them all. Lots of posts and I really appreciate it. I am leaning toward the router method since I already own one ($8 used) and have yet tried it out. This will be the most cost effective way.

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 2:23 am
by mickyd
mickyd wrote:Ouch!!!! This one is going to require upper managment approval (>$100) It also doesn't indicate that stock is available. I'll have to call. Maybe I should have taken up needle point.:p This one I can just squeak by.
JPG40504 wrote:You can purchase a Freud 8" dado set for less than $100 at sears. I do not know if they also sell the smaller one(less $$$). Other places sell them also($$ varies).

.....
FYI - The second link in my post above showed a 6" Freud for $85 through Rockler (who is often high $$ from what I've heard).

Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:30 am
by nomoman
a1gutterman wrote:The red is talking about the router chuckand the blue is referring to the drill chuck. :)
quote=lv2wdwrk Red is for the router chuck & blue is for the drill chuck.

Thanks guys... I guess I have to read it a little closer next time..