Shopsmith Forums

Nice looking feet, Chuck, and that is a good idea about making a hidden "real" foot to protect the decorative oak! Where did you learn that trick?

Great progress Chuck. Very nice.

Looking back on your thread, I wonder if you can describe your repair method for the dovetail?

Whatsa 'till box'???

A till box is a box where you can put (usually valuable) stuff. It is one of those redundant terms. It could have been called a till.

The third definition - a noun - the business definition is further down this page. http://www.thefreedictionary.com/till

mickyd wrote:Great progress Chuck. Very nice.

Looking back on your thread, I wonder if you can describe your repair method for the dovetail?

Simply sliced off the broken part to square it, then glued on a squared patch. In this case it really didn't matter much. It was just a piddly thing to do. The patch will be entirely covered with molding.

One of my favorite things is to piddle around with wood. My definition of wood shop piddling: - trimming and fitting, slicing, carving sanding and patching.

Some of us like to piddle with machines to make them accurate. I'd rather piddle with the wood to fix the fitting or the appearance. It seems there's always some of that to do no matter how accurate the machines are.

Here's the set-up and the results of using the shaper to make bottom molding. Just need to rip off the two edges. Actually I had first tried the router with a couple of bits. Frankly, I liked using the shaper more than the router in a table. The shaper was smooth. Just had to move the wood slowly. There was no danger of burning. The set-up was quick and easy. I'll have to use this tool more often.
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charlese wrote:Here's the set-up and the results of using the shaper to make bottom molding. Just need to rip off the two edges. Actually I had first tried the router with a couple of bits. Frankly, I liked using the shaper more than the router in a table. The shaper was smooth. Just had to move the wood slowly. There was no danger of burning. The set-up was quick and easy. I'll have to use this tool more often.

I have been telling people that for years.
Especially every time somebody that has never tried it jumps in and says that it won't work...
Now if I could just convince guys that you don't have to feed wood at a run when you are not running factory production...

Nice work Chuck.

Paul M

Wow! This molding was trouble! When ripping the molding from the board (Post #26) I sawed the molding too thin, un-usable. Shaped another shape on the (now) flat side of the board, and ripped both sides properly.

Here's where I really screwed up - sawed off the miter on the wrong side of the line. This rendered one of the two sides again unusable. Finally, made up a new piece and got the lower molding glued in place, but not until I made up a dovetailed drawer divider. Don't know why I bothered to dovetail the bottom of the divider. It is covered with the molding!:(

Then attached the feet with screws and glue. I set the feet 1/8" proud of the molding. Could have made it flush with the molding, but thought a little step looks better.

Here's the chest as it sits today, and a close up of the drawer divider. The brad holes under the upper molding have yet to be filled.

The first photo shows 'wrap around grain' at the front left corner of the chest. This is my first try to get this effect, Wonder if it will be noticeable when finished? I couldn't keep the other corners organized to get the effect. In fact, one of the sides was dovetailed backwards.

Finally, got all bench chisles sharpened and the Shopsmith serviced this week!:D
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Wow! This molding was trouble! When ripping the molding from the board (Post #26) I sawed the molding too thin, un-usable. Shaped another shape on the (now) flat side of the board, and ripped both sides properly.

Here's where I really screwed up - sawed off the miter on the wrong side of the line. This rendered one of the two sides again unusable. Finally, made up a new piece and got the lower molding glued in place, but not until I made up a dovetailed drawer divider. Don't know why I bothered to dovetail the bottom of the divider. It is covered with the molding!:(

Then attached the feet with screws and glue. I set the feet 1/8" proud of the molding. Could have made it flush with the molding, but thought a little step looks better.

Here's the chest as it sits today, and a close up of the drawer divider. The brad holes under the upper molding have yet to be filled.

The first photo shows 'wrap around grain' at the front left corner of the chest. This is my first try to get this effect, Wonder if it will be noticeable when finished? I couldn't keep the other corners organized to get the effect. In fact, one of the sides was dovetailed backwards.

Finally, got all bench chisles sharpened and the Shopsmith serviced this week!:D
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