Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:I think the appropriate thing to do is for them to ship a new motor immediately. That will give you a shipping container for you to ship the 'defective one' back. They should pay shipping both ways. IMHO

P.S. Nice Pix!

I'd much rather crimp on a new connector. Especially when I have already gotten close enough to it to take pictures like these.

Cool! looks like a fairly straight forward repair. Glad you found it. A Shopsmith as a gift:rolleyes: Man all I ever get is baseball caps and pocket knives

I've been studying these photos and I don't care for what I think I see. It appears that Shopsmith is now making the wire connections down by the motor. The only wires (it I read this right) that go up to the switch are hot lead (black from the power cord) and the switched hot lead (blue to the motor).

The AC Neutral wires (white) are spliced right there at the entry into the motor pan.

I prefer all four wires going up into the headstock (to the area of the switch). In fact, I still switch both the hot and the neutral. This is a throw back to my time as an airborne communications technician. The Air Force always insisted that the neutral also be switched. They might not do that now but I still do.

PS I'm impressed by the quality of these pictures taken way down inside the headstock. Now there are two people on this forum who take quality shots like these - you and Mickyd.

Looks like a case of "overly aggressive crimp tool use".
Radio Shack has the 1/4 " spade lug connectors in stock in most stores.
Bill V

dusty wrote:I've been studying these photos and I don't care for what I think I see. It appears that Shopsmith is now making the wire connections down by the motor. The only wires (it I read this right) that go up to the switch are hot lead (black from the power cord) and the switched hot lead (blue to the motor).

The AC Neutral wires (white) are spliced right there at the entry into the motor pan.

I prefer all four wires going up into the headstock (to the area of the switch). In fact, I still switch both the hot and the neutral. This is a throw back to my time as an airborne communications technician. The Air Force always insisted that the neutral also be switched. They might not do that now but I still do.

PS I'm impressed by the quality of these pictures taken way down inside the headstock. Now there are two people on this forum who take quality shots like these - you and Mickyd.

Yes, a very poor job of attaching the connector/terminal to the white wire. Must have been early Monday or late Friday when it was done. I believe Shopsmith switched to doing the neutral (white) wires connected at the motor in the mid 90s from the headstocks and in instruction sheets on the switch replacement I have seen. The use of a grounded plug and motor connection should make this setup safe as did the switching of both hot and neutral motor wires. This was the answer I got when I discussed this change with a Shopsmith engineer around 2002 when I first found Shopsmith doing this new setup.

For this later motor wire setup, I use a white jumper wire that can be connected from the short white motor wire to the switch so the neutral wire can be switched. I use an insulated male and female terminal on this white jumper wire.

Ok all I have some great news. My SS is up and throwing saw dust all over. I talked with SS CS this morning and let them know what the issue was and asked if I could repair it or would I have to send it back to them. I was given the go ahead and after all repairs were made I contacted SS to let them know the status. SS CS was happy enough to give me a SS gift card.

So know I am almost happy as a lark. I started some lathe work and one of the knives came out of the handle and landed on my foot (Ouch). I guess I'll be sending that one back on monday.

Again thanks for all the help and advice.

P.S. Those pics were taken with my Blackberry Storm

meangreen wrote:So know I am almost happy as a lark. I started some lathe work and one of the knives came out of the handle and landed on my foot (Ouch). I guess I'll be sending that one back on monday.

You have got to be kidding!!!! My lathe tools are works of art, when I bought mine they were being made by Buck for Shopsmith and I simply can't fault them. To have a steel fall out of the handle on first use is inexcusable.

billmayo wrote:Yes, a very poor job of attaching the connector/terminal to the white wire. Must have been early Monday or late Friday when it was done. I believe Shopsmith switched to doing the neutral (white) wires connected at the motor in the mid 90s from the headstocks and in instruction sheets on the switch replacement I have seen. The use of a grounded plug and motor connection should make this setup safe as did the switching of both hot and neutral motor wires. This was the answer I got when I discussed this change with a Shopsmith engineer around 2002 when I first found Shopsmith doing this new setup.

For this later motor wire setup, I use a white jumper wire that can be connected from the short white motor wire to the switch so the neutral wire can be switched. I use an insulated male and female terminal on this white jumper wire.

Switching the neutral provides minimal 'extra safety'.
It does insure the motor turns off even if the pole switching the 'hot' wire sticks on.
That stuck hot wire pole causes a new safety issue(the failure of the stuck on pole is not detectable by 'normal' operation(the switched neutral turns the motor off, but the hot is connected to everything but the line side of the switch pole switching the neutral)).

So the 'question' is which is more critical a)making sure the motor shuts off or b)making sure the hot is disconnected. for a) switch the neutral also. For b) switch the hot only(you will be aware when it 'sticks').

IMHO the connectors at the motor for the neutral/line cord junction is ok, but the addition of a connector at the motor/switched hot lead junction also would be an improvement(allows disconnecting the motor without messing with the switch wiring).

BTW Dusty, the pix were taken with the motor/pan dropped out of the headstock and setting on the bench tubes. Also yer no slouch in the pix department yourself!;)

Methinks this 'problem' was caused by the insulation stripping operation nicking the wire strands making them weak at the flexing point(end of terminal).

Ed in Tampa wrote:You have got to be kidding!!!! My lathe tools are works of art, when I bought mine they were being made by Buck for Shopsmith and I simply can't fault them. To have a steel fall out of the handle on first use is inexcusable.

Wonder where his new one was made?:rolleyes:

JPG40504 wrote:Wonder where his new one was made?:rolleyes:

...China?...