Shopsmith Forums

fiatben wrote:OK, I have a question. What the heck is Kroil?

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I use the Aero-kroil. A little bit goes a LONG way. I've gone through a complete ER restoration and now a Mark 5 and I don't think I've used even half the can. I don't think I would have ever gotten the ER apart without the Kroil. Before using the Kroil on it, I tried using WD-40 and Liquid Wrench to get the base arm off the way tubes, but neither seemed to do anything. I applied a few drops of Kroil, waited about 30 seconds, then all it took was a light tap with my rubber mallet to remove the stuck part.

fiatben wrote:Turns out it was very easy to knock out the pin. I took a nail that looked about right, ground off the tip and ground the diameter down to about right, a couple of light taps with a hammer and it was a done deal. I suspect putting it back together may take more effort.

Actually, it should be pretty easy to get back together. Just make sure the holes are aligned. As jpg said, just make sure the ends of the pin have a slight chamfer on them and are not mushroomed. I used a small hex wrench just a hair smaller than the pin to help align the holes. I started the pin with a hammer. I set the headstock on the table and put a couple of blocks of wood under the handle to support it. When the pin got close to the handle, I used a small bolt as a "punch" and tapped it the rest of the way in.

When you replace the cord use at least a 14 gauge. The first time I had my '54 Greenie apart I replaced the cord with a 16 gauge and it was hard starting and finally started blowing the breaker, so this time I went to the heavier gauge and it works fine now. I used an extension cord from Walmart ("Woods") and cut it in half, and added a new female end to one half for a heavy duty extension cord. Isn't this fun?

I love the feedback here. It's nice to know I am not the only one in the throes (painful struggle) of reviving an old, but solid, machine.

First, a (hopefully) helpful idea:
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I have found these mini-picks and a baby bottle brush to be indispensable for taking my "lady" apart.

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The quill is definitely a single bearing which is just as definitely in need of replacing. I think from my reading/watching that this is pressed on. Am I needing to look for a small machine shop locally with a hydraulic press?

Second question. Obviously I'd love to have two bearings. Can I retrofit this quill? Wouldn't that require having a machine shop cut a shoulder and retaining groove inside the quill? If so, how far up in there does it go?

Thirdly, the bearing is a Fafnir 202KD5, which I am assuming I can buy/replace?

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I easily drove the inner drive shaft bearing out once I pulled the retaining spring. I had a practice piece from my lathe that I just turned one end down to 2" OD. Good to know my Carba-tec mini-lathe has uses.

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The drive assembly and inner bearing. There is some galling on the shaft where this bearing mount, but not bad. Also, this pic shows the wear on the teeth, again not bad. At this point, since both bearing turn very smoothly and the wear on the teeth is very even, I'm tending to simply clean it up, put it back together and put it back to use.

The operative word for this project is "cheap" as in I don't have a lot of money to spend on new parts, bead blasting the finish, etc. My approach is to go with "good enough" and get my lady back to running, but also to not have to tear it down again for at least a few years.

Again, thanks for all the input and ideas.

JPG40504 wrote:FILE
BTW What are you using the cedar darning form for?

Actually, it has nothing to do with the renovation, just happened to be where I laid it when I brought it back out to the barn. It is for my Mom so she can darn dad's socks which are designed for diabetics. A traditional darning egg has a small spindle for a handle and older people need something easier to grasp. In fact, dad showed it to a friend of theirs and now I have to make another one. Guess I need to get back out to the barn!:o

JPG40504 wrote:FILE the wedges where the wear has pushed material out into the od of the wedge. Remove the 'hump' on the 'flat' angled surface. I would not go much beyond that.

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I don't have a big "body" of experience here to add. However following one experience I decided to always use new lock-wedges. With a filed old wedge I had, it made a squeaky sound every time I tightened it. The new wedge was very quiet. Something about the quality (or the angle) of the wedge surface bearing on the tube?

GOOD LUCK WITH LADY GREEN

JPG40504 wrote:This could come in handy!!!!! It is a pita to use, but does get the job done! Yes the bearings are near zero clearance on the shaft(both the main shaft and the quill).

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=93980&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=

After reviewing this link, I am concerned that they may no longer be commonly available(no price listed...)

Your link is to harborfreightusa.com which doesn't list pricing. You need to go the harborfreight.com

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93980

Bearing separator/puller is still available.

fiatben wrote:I love the feedback here. It's nice .......

The drive assembly and inner bearing. There is some galling on the shaft where this bearing mount, but not bad. Also, this pic shows the wear on the teeth, again not bad. At this point, since both bearing turn very smoothly and the wear on the teeth is very even, I'm tending to simply clean it up, put it back together and put it back to use.
........
Again, thanks for all the input and ideas.

You'll want to test your Gilmer drive clutch to make sure that it is within the expected slip range of 10-20 foot-lbs, otherwise, bye-bye Gilmer belt should you have a jam.

This thread shows the complete disassemble and torque test. As a minimum, do the torque test. Post 5 shows the actual test. This post, forth picture shows a better clamping method than the one I used.

Your documenting your work very nicely. Great pics.

I think too much while working on this. I need to crank my boombox up louder.

I got back to cleaning parts now that absolutely everything is out of the headstock. This afternoon I was looking at my "porkchop" (and wondering how it came to be called this).

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Shown here in the approx. position for high speed. It was hard to turn the worm by hand. I could see a lot of impacted sawdust in the teeth so I grabbed my trusty mini-pick and turned the screw (with difficulty) until is was free of the quadrant assembly.

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The teeth were quite worn and I think it is because of all the material impactedwas forcing the screw into the teeth, especially if a PO tried to change speed in a hurry. So I got out my needle files and dressed the faces of the teeth as best I could, removing burs and galls and flattening them back out.
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While at some point I may consider replacing the quadrant assembly (Ref #86 - pn504221), I am confident this will work smoothly for the foreseeable future. I may, however, pull this assembly from time to time to keep it nice and clean to prevent further damage to the teeth.

It now turns much easier and smoothly.

A question;
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how much play should be in this pinned connection between the quadrant assembly and the speed control bracket?

fiatben wrote:I think too much while working on this. I need to crank my boombox up louder.

I got back to cleaning parts now that absolutely everything is out of the headstock. This afternoon I was looking at my "porkchop" (and wondering how it came to be called this).

[ATTACH]8288[/ATTACH]

Shown here in the approx. position for high speed. It was hard to turn the worm by hand. I could see a lot of impacted sawdust in the teeth so I grabbed my trusty mini-pick and turned the screw (with difficulty) until is was free of the quadrant assembly.

[ATTACH]8289[/ATTACH]
The teeth were quite worn and I think it is because of all the material impactedwas forcing the screw into the teeth, especially if a PO tried to change speed in a hurry. So I got out my needle files and dressed the faces of the teeth as best I could, removing burs and galls and flattening them back out.
[ATTACH]8290[/ATTACH]

While at some point I may consider replacing the quadrant assembly (Ref #86 - pn504221), I am confident this will work smoothly for the foreseeable future. I may, however, pull this assembly from time to time to keep it nice and clean to prevent further damage to the teeth.

It now turns much easier and smoothly.

A question]8291[/ATTACH]
how much play should be in this pinned connection between the quadrant assembly and the speed control bracket?

The last pix of the speed control shows a common 'problem'. It is what causes the abnormal wear on the quadrant gear. The legs are 'bent' and yes there is too much side play. The worm gear is not centered on the quadrant gear.

A contributing factor to this 'problem', is the rollpin(sorry mike, that is what ss calls them). It increases the amount of slop. I do not know if the bent legs are the result of forcing the speed control, or by insertion of the roll pin.

In any event, the 'fix' involves carefully bending them back to straight, and replacing the roll pin with a 10-32 screw, nut, and lockwashers. PM Bill mayo & he can send you info.


It is his fix!