Shopsmith Forums

mickyd wrote:This was an interesting comment I came across while trying to find the site that discussed the heating of the electrolyte.


Following excerpt is from http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html
"A problem I have found with some battery chargers (if you do not have a battery included in the circuit), is that the rectifiers that filter the AC to DC are poor. This means that some of the material that has been pulled off the item you are cleaning, gets reattached to the part because a small fraction of the current flow is reversed. While not a huge problem, the part will not be as clean as it could be. If connected to a battery, the "unclean" output from the battery charger is rectified."

Maybe that was your issue Mark where you weren't impressed with the electrolysis process.

Although I question the detail re reversing the process(due to implied reversed polarity), the 'unfiltered' output would reduce the 'effective' rate of rust removal to slightly less than 2/3 that obtained with well filtered output.

I found it 'interesting' that the heat is created after the rust has been 'removed'. Perhaps because the cathode is more conductive after rust removed?

BTW some inexpensive chargers do not have an ammeter! Instead they have a resistor with a bi-metallic piece which moves the 'needle'. A higher current causes the resistor to get hotter, which causes the 'needle' to move farther.

Thanks MIKE for this additional info on this process!

I am wondering if oil and grease on the surface to be "de-rusted" may slow the reaction on these areas. Next time I set up a bath, I think that I will chemically strip the items before boiling.

mark-b wrote:I am wondering if oil and grease on the surface to be "de-rusted" may slow the reaction on these areas. Next time I set up a bath, I think that I will chemically strip the items before boiling.

Yep the grease wood impede the process.

mark-b wrote:I am wondering if oil and grease on the surface to be "de-rusted" may slow the reaction on these areas. Next time I set up a bath, I think that I will chemically strip the items before boiling.

The guy in the post #20 link I referenced, 2nd paragraph, claims to use electrolysis as a grease remover. Makes sense in a way since the electrolyte is soap (washing soda) and the electrolysis current generates heat.

My experience with grease is with a bunch of cast iron pans I've restored. I did this crusty greasy hibachi without precleaning and it came out grease free and uniform.
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As purchased from craigslist
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Out of the electrolysis bath, brushed clean and washed. This is bare cast iron.
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After high temperature seasoning with Crisco. Still bare cast iron but now with the black petina from the carbon in the oil bonding to the iron.
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I've seen several sites on electrolysis that says to wash the parts to remove dirt and grease but from my cast iron experience, I have to say that it was removed by the electrolysis process.

I especially like the way it comes out of the bath repainted too:)

mmorris wrote:I especially like the way it comes out of the bath repainted too:)

No paint on this baby. After electolysis, you clean it well and go through a seasoning process that using high heat and Crisco which gives it the dark petina and also makes it 100% non-stick.

mickyd wrote:No paint on this baby. After electolysis, you clean it well and go through a seasoning process that using high heat and Crisco which gives it the dark petina and also makes it 100% non-stick.

Can you describe the seasoning process? I've got some of my grandmother's old cast iron pans that need to be seasoned. I just don't know what to do to them.

heathicus wrote:Can you describe the seasoning process? I've got some of my grandmother's old cast iron pans that need to be seasoned. I just don't know what to do to them.

Follow this procedure to the letter. Don't follow any other method you might see on the internet that discuss lower temp or turning the pan upside down and ANY other variation. I've tried them all and this is the one that comes out PERFECT. And Heath, when it says LIGHT coating, it means LIGHT coating, just enough to make it shine, no more.
p.s. Do it on a bachelor day if possible. It's kind of like when you use the clean cycle on the oven. It's a tad obnoxious. Nothing radical but enough where you'll want to have air circulation.
p.p.s. I only use cast iron pans to cook, unless it's tomato based or acidic. Scrambled eggs, fried eggs, doesn't matter. Cook up a couple batchs of bacon in them before cooking eggs for the first time and you'll see that they are 100% non-stick. PLUS, you get the benefit of adding iron to your diet.....no kidding.

Thanks, Mike. I'll give it a try when I get a chance.

mickyd wrote:p.p.s. I only use cast iron pans to cook, unless it's tomato based or acidic. Scrambled eggs, fried eggs, doesn't matter. Cook up a couple batchs of bacon in them before cooking eggs for the first time and you'll see that they are 100% non-stick. PLUS, you get the benefit of adding iron to your diet.....no kidding.

My mom only uses cast iron too. And anybody who's a fan of breakfast knows that the best thing to cook eggs in is bacon grease!

heathicus wrote:Thanks, Mike. I'll give it a try when I get a chance.



My mom only uses cast iron too. And anybody who's a fan of breakfast knows that the best thing to cook eggs in is bacon grease!

I'll take mine floating in butter thank you! The 'secret' is to not get them hot enough to burn the butter which will prevent scorched aiggs!