Shopsmith Forums

chiroindixon wrote:Check Evapo-Rust. Hit their website. Big hit with military users. We know rust.

Doc, retired GI Joe.

Bingo! I have used this product many times and it is as good as they claim, maybe better! Available on Amazon.com or your handy dandy Harbor Freight store.

rpd wrote:

oldiron wrote:Another thing to try for the bench and way tubes is soaking in a 2" PVC pipe filled with water and "White Potatoes". It may take a few days but it's suppose to work really nice.

Another thing is Apple cider vinegar. I use it for just about everything which is bare metal and it removes the rust extremely well. For light rust, It takes 1 to 2 days. For heavy rust, It may take up to 4 days.

Once the rust has been dissolved, You simply wash the part with mild soap and water. Wax or oil promptly afterwards.

The process is a little bit slow however, No harsh chemicals and no elbow grease needed...

Mike

Having had potatoes go rotten in the back of the pantry, (and onions are even worse. ), I suspect that the Apple cider vinegar smells a LOT better.

Yep, Though pungent, The Apple cider vinegar smells much better than rotting potatoes!!!!!!!!

Mike

My method was simple... Sandpaper and the necessary way to apply it. Palm sander for flat surfaces, but my favorite was a piece of sand paper and an old t-shirt wrap it around once with the sand paper inside it and alternate pulling each end so it twists the paper around the tubes. Cleans up the tubes very quickly. Also works wonders for waxing them and buffing them fast. However I bet there are much easier techniques out there.

Anytime I hear "Sandpaper on way tubes", I cringe...

Mike

oldiron wrote:Anytime I hear "Sandpaper on way tubes", I cringe...

Mike

Some say far less grit than I use when I polish metal.

1000 grit crocus cloth or higher was the standard for polishing crankshaft journals to a fine finish. I prefer 2000 grit finish, starting with lower and moving up.

I personally use Evaporust to rid the rust, and crocus cloth to finish the polishing of the metal, then tried and true Johnsons paste wax on tubes.

Other parts will need polishing compounds (progressive) and a buffing system to achieve finish. Aluminum is different requirement than chrome, or steel and needs different compounds to cut and polish.

Caswell is a good place to read up on what's available as well as a multitude of restorers here in the forums. http://www.caswellplating.com/

Everett

If you want a before and after look at electrolysis, look at my some of my post of when I refurbished my shopsmith. Electrolysis, if done correctly will bring it down to bare metal. You will still need to use a wire brush to get some of the excess rust off then prime and paint with quality paint. To clean off lighter rust, I recommend a Green or red SOS pad (you can get from harbor freight or Lowes). To clean off the tubes, use the potato method (look at sawdust sessions).
I took my machine completely apart when I purchased it, did electrolysis on every piece I could fit in the barrel, finished up by painting. This was not a quick process, and took me several months to complete, but it still looks great today and I use it daily for my woodworking. The above ideas worked for me; my shopsmith was at the beach outside for years before I got it.

Or for inside tight places where it is hard to reach and maneuver, you can try one of these. I have one which I have not tried, but plan to in the next few days. I have some sawblades I want to try this on.

http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopp ... 95793.html

It uses baking soda and the brand name does not matter.

Steve, the old swampgator