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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 1:08 pm
by dusty
[quote="JPG40504"]Have you tried cutting THIN strips?:D Those thick ones look good!]
I don't know, JPG. I'm not seeing what you say you see. No evidence of operator error
remaining here.
PS Note that in post #25, this thread, the quoted statement remains unchanged, even though this change was made..
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 1:14 pm
by dusty
[quote="JPG40504"]Have you tried cutting THIN strips?:D Those thick ones look good!]
I don't know. How thin should I be able to get?
[ATTACH]8719[/ATTACH]
1/64"
Hey, this is a wood working forum. I thought we weren't suppose to worry about measurements in the thousandths????
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 2:44 pm
by robinson46176
dusty wrote:I don't know. How thin should I be able to get?
When you can read through it I would quit...
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 2:50 pm
by charlese
Dusty - your thin strips are lookin' good to me! Nice Work!!! Better than I've ever purposefully done!
Ed - If wood gets so expensive that I have to worry about making sawdust, I'll get back into the forestry business and thank all of the environmentalists for their concerns. -- Your other reasons are more acceptable to this old curmudgeon!;)
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:41 pm
by JPG
dusty wrote:I don't know, JPG. I'm not seeing what you say you see. No evidence of operator error here.
The top pix is labeled 1/16".
The lower pix is labeled 1/32".
The top pix appears to be thinner than the lower one.
OK OK OK So ya 'fixed' it! Anyone who is confused, check the quotes of the 'original' post!!!
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:57 pm
by JPG
dusty wrote:is not a difficult task. The operator must pay attention to detail, however.
Actually, I do not know exactly what I did to eliminate my symptoms of a drafting bamd.
I still have the same blade and the same cool blocks installed and the cool blocks have not been adjusted.
I did have the blade off so tension might be different. I know for certail that the cool blocks have been lowered to just above the stock being ripped AND
I am using a different fence.
I have a low profile fence attached to the table right now so that I can rip real thin pieces. Cutting thinn pieces I could not get the cools blocks low enough with the regular fence.
CONCLUSION: As someone has already implied - OPERATOR ERROR.
[ATTACH]8718[/ATTACH]
1/16" thick
[ATTACH]8717[/ATTACH]
1/32" thick
Notice the pix have been reversed!!!!:rolleyes:
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:24 am
by Ed in Tampa
[quote="charlese"]Dusty - your thin strips are lookin' good to me! Nice Work!!! Better than I've ever purposefully done!
Ed - If wood gets so expensive that I have to worry about making sawdust, I'll get back into the forestry business and thank all of the environmentalists for their concerns. -- Your other reasons are more acceptable to this old curmudgeon!]
Chuck
For me the time has arrived I got some pieces of exotic/intense grain wood that I just look at, because knowing the cost I can't bring myself to cut on them yet.
Perhaps my problem is buying that expensive wood to begin with.
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 12:13 pm
by JPG
Ed in Tampa wrote:Chuck
For me the time has arrived I got some pieces of exotic/intense grain wood that I just look at, because knowing the cost I can't bring myself to cut on them yet.
Perhaps my problem is buying that expensive wood to begin with.
It
is nice to be able to get 3 (THREE) usable (>3/16") pieces from a 1 inch(3/4") board!
Not possible with TS!
Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 8:20 am
by tsaguy
I have used my bandsaw with minimal problems to rip stock. One thing I do is to run the wood over my tablesaw first, cutting about 1/4" deep groove. This allows the bandsaw to follow a pre-determined 'track' of sorts. I never heard of adjusting the fence for the blade variance, I will do so.
My method wont work if you are trying to cut thin stock though, as a table saw blade might be wider than 1/32"...