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Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 3:00 pm
by JPG
mickyd wrote:OK A the H!!

p.s. .......

acronym.com
What does ADFCDT stand for?

Your abbreviation search returned 0 meanings

That's the problem with being 'original'! If folks don't get it, it must be explained.(I told you googling was taboo!)

I will tell you the first part, but you must demonstrate its meaning by figuring the rest out yourself! ADF = Any Damn Fool .:D

Consider yerself 'setup'!:rolleyes:

Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:16 pm
by mickyd
JPG40504 wrote:That's the problem with being 'original'! If folks don't get it, it must be explained.(I told you googling was taboo!)

I will tell you the first part, but you must demonstrate its meaning by figuring the rest out yourself! ADF = Any Damn Fool .:D

Consider yerself 'setup'!:rolleyes:
p. I think I can do that!!
p.s. I think it's 'damned'.
p.s.s. I didn't google what you told me not to.

Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:43 pm
by JPG
mickyd wrote:p. I think I can do that!!
p.s. I think it's 'damned'.
p.s.s. I didn't google what you told me not to.

Congratulations on a stellar demonstration of the acronym!:D

If you want to be 'pre damned', so be it!

BTW its pps, not pss. Stands for post post script. (Posted after the post script) which was posted after the script. . . . . .That means the first chatacter in yer post should have been an [s]!

Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:15 pm
by mickyd
:eek:
JPG40504 wrote:Congratulations on a stellar demonstration of the acronym!:D

If you want to be 'pre damned', so be it!

BTW its pps, not pss. Stands for post post script. (Posted after the post script) which was posted after the script. . . . . .That means the first chatacter in yer post should have been an [s]!
But aren't you implying the you knew the intent of my 'mini acronyms'?? Maybe I was p'ing something else. :eek:
p.s. We must stop. We hijacked the thread. I thought it was in Potpourri!! Sorry owenbrent!!

Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:21 pm
by mikelst
OK... I have my "New" planer and the blades are in desperate need of cleaning and sharpening.

I contacted SS and ordered the alignment jig and the manual. I have a conical disc on the way (also courtisy of SS). Is there any reason this

http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/052404/index.htm
or this
http://www.academytips.com/clean_cuts/index16.htm

Jig couldn't be made (longer) and with more hold down screws and used to sharpen the blades instead of spending more money on the 'new aluminum" jig SS sell?

I am already bleeding green over this great buy I found:p, and if I don't have to spend more money I don't want to... At least in the short run.

Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:39 pm
by billmayo
I appears to me that you could make the wood block 14" or longer long with a hold down screw at each end of the knife to hold the knife from moving. I would go for an 18" or longer block of wood to help me hold the block of wood againest the fence when sharpening at each end of the knife. With the conical disc, you may have to tilt the table to get the sharpening angle to what you want (36 to 45 degrees, I use 42 degrees) for the knives. I am sure you can make a wedge for the wood block with several screws to hold the joiner knives that is similar to the Shopsmith one.

I use the Shopsmith Planer/Jointer Knife Sharpener so I can insure all 3 joiner blades are the same size and weight.
mikelst wrote:OK... I have my "New" planer and the blades are in desperate need of cleaning and sharpening.

I contacted SS and ordered the jig and the manual. I have a conical disc on the way (also courtisy of SS). Is there any reason this

http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/052404/index.htm
or this
http://www.academytips.com/clean_cuts/index16.htm

Jig couldn't be made (longer) and with more hold down screws and used to sharpen the blades instead of spending more money on the 'new aluminum" jig SS sell?

I am already bleeding green over this great buy I found:p, and if I don't have to spend more money I don't want to... At least in the short run.

Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 10:21 am
by owenbrent
Don't worry about hijacking the thread, I enjoyed reading the posts. I have to admit though when I saw that the thread grew to page three, I was wondering what the heck I wrote in my last post that set everybody off.

Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 2:54 am
by JPG
owenbrent wrote:Don't worry about hijacking the thread, I enjoyed reading the posts. I have to admit though when I saw that the thread grew to page three, I was wondering what the heck I wrote in my last post that set everybody off.

Yes! Some of us do at times get carried away! Usually the result of mutual respect and the desire do some good natured ribbing. Some of us do not take ourselves or each other too seriously and are not easily 'offended' so we do have a good time.

If that is distracting, sorry! It not be intended that way.

Thank YOU for being tolerant!

P.S. It still be page one for me. You can set page length in your profile.

Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 8:28 am
by owenbrent
Hey thanks for the tip on page lengths. Looks like I have about as much to learn about Forums as I do about woodworking.

Posted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 4:04 pm
by mikelst
billmayo wrote: I am sure you can make a wedge for the wood block with several screws to hold the joiner knives that is similar to the Shopsmith one.

Maybe I don't get it but in this tip

http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/052404/index.htm

the third paragraph says
"Next, pre-drill and drive a #12 x 1" roundhead wood screw (with washer) into your groove, 3/4" in from each end. Be sure the point of your screw will engage your Jointer Blade, when inserted into the slot."

Isn't that saying the screw should tighten down on the blade, not outside it?

The way I read it I should run the screw into the blade to hold it in place. No???

The other thing I find confusing is the statement that says

45-degrees is a good all-purpose angle. However, this angle can be varied sltightly, if you work primarily with soft woods (use 42-degrees) or hardwoods (use 36-degrees).

Wouldn't a better all purpose angle be between 42 and 36 degrees, say 39?