Cutting 22.5 degree cut

[tenbears]

Brief trip to the trusty SS and if you have the Tenon Master jig from SS you can make the cut safely with the stock held vertically. Table tilted 22.5 clockwise, stock and Tenon Jig on the downside of the table, right of blade. Just using the rip fence looks a bit like a trip to the Emergency room without making some sort of jig to safely hold the stock. Would also need to use a sacrificial fence as the apex of the miter cut is right against the rip fence. Even with the Tenon Master you would need to use a sacrificial fence between the stock and the fence. Lots of different ways to get to the end result on this one.

[wdelliott]

Ed's picture is correct (the first one posted at 4:45, showing the sharp angle and both boards together at a 45 degree angle.

I'm now reminded of the value of Sketch Up.

The vertical placement of the board while cutting is seeming to be the solution to the severe angled cut.

[wdelliott]

Ten Bears,
I am tending to agree with you about using the miter saw to accomplish the 22.5 degree cut. I even took a shot at cutting the board by hand, but my interest in the question was discovering SS techniques. I sort of think that the SS can do anything, if I was more skilled.

[dusty]

Ten Bears,
I am tending to agree with you about using the miter saw to accomplish the 22.5 degree cut. I even took a shot at cutting the board by hand, but my interest in the question was discovering SS techniques. I sort of think that the SS can do anything, if I was more skilled.

Out of curiosity - which, if any of the configurations did you have in mind when you posted this? Did any of us come close to answering your question?

[tenbears]

If you are after a really accurate miter, build a Donkey's Ear to 67.5 degrees and shoot the miter with a razor sharp hand plane. Warning though: this is a very slippery slope. Miters by plane are addictive.

[JPG]

Brief trip to the trusty SS and if you have the Tenon Master jig from SS you can make the cut safely with the stock held vertically. Table tilted 22.5 clockwise, stock and Tenon Jig on the downside of the table, right of blade. Just using the rip fence looks a bit like a trip to the Emergency room without making some sort of jig to safely hold the stock. Would also need to use a sacrificial fence as the apex of the miter cut is right against the rip fence. Even with the Tenon Master you would need to use a sacrificial fence between the stock and the fence. Lots of different ways to get to the end result on this one.

This would work quite nicely for this 'operation'!

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=58632&postcount=91


10Bears: A pix or description of a 'Donkey's ear' would be both educational and appreciated!!!!

[SDSSmith]

Or this fixture from PTWFE:


Found in Raised Panels section here:
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw_spops/index.htm

[dusty]

This would work quite nicely for this 'operation'!

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=58632&postcount=91


10Bears: A pix or description of a 'Donkey's ear' would be both educational and appreciated!!!!

Here is a donkey's ear. The slope is obviously critical and if built in this fashion would necessitate one for each different angle required.

[ATTACH]9624[/ATTACH]

[tenbears]

Here is a link to a "Fine Woodworking" page describing the "Donkey's Ear"

Rob's reference to the auxiliary fence from PTWFE would be way faster to make. I'd add a vertical stop on the fence along with a toggle clamp, essentially making a tenon jig that rides on the rip fence instead of the miter slot.

[JPG]

Here is a link to a "Fine Woodworking" page describing the "Donkey's Ear"

Rob's reference to the auxiliary fence from PTWFE would be way faster to make. I'd add a vertical stop on the fence along with a toggle clamp, essentially making a tenon jig that rides on the rip fence instead of the miter slot.

And the link is......