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Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:57 pm
by rdubbs
JPG40504 wrote:I assume ya put the duplicator to work! What are they going to be used on(stair rail, balcony, ???).
That does not look like hobby work! Interesting!
Hi JPG,
I've about worn out a couple of the bits for my duplicator, but I think they'll make it to the end. I beleive that they are being used on a porch railing. I know they'll be outside, that's why they're white oak.
I am a math teacher, but I work part time at the Woodcraft in Indy. Sometimes folks come in needing work done and te owner doesn't not mind if the work does not interfere with store operations.
Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:07 pm
by JPG
rdubbs wrote:Hi JPG,
I've about worn out a couple of the bits for my duplicator, but I think they'll make it to the end. I beleive that they are being used on a porch railing. I know they'll be outside, that's why they're white oak.
I am a math teacher, but I work part time at the Woodcraft in Indy. Sometimes folks come in needing work done and te owner doesn't not mind if the work does not interfere with store operations.
Thought of that use, but I couldn't believe they would be used out doors! I would think a 'cheaper' species for exterior use!
rip binding
Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:26 pm
by forrestb
If your alignment is good, your blade is sharp, and your splitter is proper then my advice is that you are slightly canting the wood as you go forward. This is very easy to do if you are not using a featherboard in front of the blade - try 2 featherboards if your rip is long. Really easy to bind if your oak is still green and the rips are long.
Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:16 pm
by charlese
White oak is a very good species to use for exterior use. The pores are filled with tylosis and seals against outdoor elements.
One of the differences between red and white oak is; you can take a piece of straight grained red oak, immerse one end in water blow into the other end and blow bubbles through it. Can't do that with white oak.
Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:23 pm
by shipwright
For the above reasons rot resistance numbers for the two are VERY VERY different. Some boatbuilders refer to red oak by the rather derogatory name ---- oak (think four letter word for urine.) We (oops, they) call white oak ... oak.
Paul M
oak binding
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:41 am
by forrestb
This probably not due to the oak, but to wet wood or the technique. If the boards twist or move laterally at all when passing even a very sharp blade, you can get binding and burning. Be sure that your boards are flat all the way (no wind or twist) and that the edge against the fence is truly straight. Use 1 or more featherboards in front of the blade if your boards are long. If not used, you may be slightly cocking the board away from the fence as you push through. Even a small cocking will cause binding on a long board.