Shopsmith Forums

This is off subject some but all the wiring talk reminded me of something. Some 10 years ago or so I latched on to a blower motor off of a 3 phase commercial furnace. The tech at the time said that the blower motor was standard 120 volt. The question is....How do you wire this thing. I want to make a sanding table.

SDSSmith wrote:Contrary to the information provided by another stubborn user, on the machines that I have seen they used a DPST (double pole single throw) switch and did in fact switch the neutral. As I noted earlier you can get by with just switching the power leg and tying the neutral wires together.

Are you referring to Dusty or yourself as stubborn? I do not think either one of you deserves that! Myself on the other hand.....

Crept out of the cobwebs between my ears and both looked at my goldie and the wiring info sent with it.

When it hit me that said goldie is a dual voltage(115v/230v) I realized I was WRONG!!!!!! I would never switch only one side of the 230V.

My confusion was caused by my accurate recollection of splicing two wires in addition to the switch wiring. This splice connects the two halves of the motor winding in series.

To better understand this, realize the motor has 6(six) leads coming out of it. Two are for the start capacitor. Two each are for each motor winding half. The motor windings are connected in parallel for 115v operation, and connected in series for 230v operation.

Regardless of which voltage application is used, the switch IS a DPST switch and both linecord conductors are connected each to one pole. The other 2/4 motor wires are connected to the other side of both poles. Maintaining polarity of the motor winding is necessary(other wise they cancel rather than add to the magnetic field).

Stubborn is ok as long as one continues with an open mind so as to realize/admit(to oneself first) that just maybe things are not just right when further thinking/observation sheds a little light in the darkness.

Do not be afraid of de light!;)

burkhome wrote:This is off subject some but all the wiring talk reminded me of something. Some 10 years ago or so I latched on to a blower motor off of a 3 phase commercial furnace. The tech at the time said that the blower motor was standard 120 volt. The question is....How do you wire this thing. I want to make a sanding table.

IF it IS 3 phase, unless you have a 3 phase source, it ain't gonna work.

Are you sure it is three phase, and not a 4 speed motor?

I would pull it out of the cage and see what the name plate says.

I question that that small a motor would be 3 phase, and this one especially since it has a start capacitor.

The white would be connected to the neutral and one of the other four to the hot. Each one results in a different speed.

Make sure you determine which wires are for the capacitor(there may be 3 if it is reversible).

Heed the info on the nameplate! The above is guesswork on my part!!!

[quote="JPG40504"]Are you referring to Dusty or yourself as stubborn? I do not think either one of you deserves that! Myself on the other hand.....

Crept out of the cobwebs between my ears and both looked at my goldie and the wiring info sent with it.

When it hit me that said goldie is a dual voltage(115v/230v) I realized I was WRONG!!!!!! I would never switch only one side of the 230V.

My confusion was caused by my accurate recollection of splicing two wires in addition to the switch wiring. This splice connects the two halves of the motor winding in series.

To better understand this, realize the motor has 6(six) leads coming out of it. Two are for the start capacitor. Two each are for each motor winding half. The motor windings are connected in parallel for 115v operation, and connected in series for 230v operation.

Regardless of which voltage application is used, the switch IS a DPST switch and both linecord conductors are connected each to one pole. The other 2/4 motor wires are connected to the other side of both poles. Maintaining polarity of the motor winding is necessary(other wise they cancel rather than add to the magnetic field).

Stubborn is ok as long as one continues with an open mind so as to realize/admit(to oneself first) that just maybe things are not just right when further thinking/observation sheds a little light in the darkness.

Do not be afraid of de light!]It takes a big man to admit when they are wrong.

SDSSmith wrote:It takes a big man to admit when they are wrong.

Nothing wrong with being wrong! Not admitting it is a problem! Not only for oneself, but for everyone else that is relevant.

Hope y'all looked quick! You have just observed a rare occurrence! I do TRY to be correct! Guess I be human after all!:D

It is not the size of the 'man', but rather the degree of self honesty!

In spite of the silliness above, I often goof up, and have no qualms either recognizing it nor admitting it to the world. I also welcome getting set straight(I reserve the right to honestly evaluate such input;)). I hate being wrong and do appreciate 'such input'. If I am wrong, it means I do not properly understand it(or correctly remember it:rolleyes:)!

Now back to motors/wiring!

Well gentlemen, I have to admit, this was a very enjoyable lunch time read. Hadn't read the thread since yesterday early afternoon. (Co-workers were asking me why I was smiling!!!)

mickyd wrote:Well gentlemen, I have to admit, this was a very enjoyable lunch time read. Hadn't read the thread since yesterday early afternoon. (Co-workers were asking me why I was smiling!!!)

And just which post were you reading????:eek:

==========================

judaspre1982 wrote:I would do as JPG said and take the motor out of the blower housing to verify voltage. It will also have a wiring schematic on it along with other specs.
It appears that you have a standard 120v single phase 4 speed blower motor.
If so the Red wire should be low speed
Black high speed
Blue med high
Yellow med low
White neutral
Brown (2) capacitor wires
The Red,Black,Blue and Yellow are power wires. Only one should be used and connected to the hot wire from the power supply. The other colors should be capped off. The White wire will connect to the neutral from the power supply.

Dave

If there are different colors for different speeds, as indicated, I would think that a multi position switch could be wired in so that one could switch select the run speed.

asked if I heeded a previous part of this thread.

No jumping wires for me other than to see if the motor worked. It did so I ordered another one and I'll wait for it vs. working with wires connected different than they were orginal intended to.