Shopsmith Forums

I drove out the tapered pins that secure the table support legs to the table bar and rotated the support legs.

Would not want to do this every time I wanted to change tilt direction but it worked once.

SDSSmith wrote:One down, one to go. Then you get to cut the teeth on the other side of the table support legs. Or once tilted the other way, you could remove and reverse the carriage.

Orrrr two carriages!:D

Orrr two tables(one with reversed posts).

Actually this has been an exercise to see what could be done. I do not have a reversing headstock. Future reference!!!!!! When I refurb the Goldie, a reversible motor may be in its future.

One of the goals was to not modify the casting in away that would make it not able to go back to normal function.

BTW the old pin hole in the hinge pin can be used as a way to prevent rotation of the pin while tightening/loosening the (new) end screws.

How about a "Mark 7 Upgrade Kit"?

How about a picture of a Mark 7 or a conversion sat at left tilt with a sanding disk on it and a average height person standing next to the headstock?

(with the legs on it) :-)


.

robinson46176 wrote:How about a picture of a Mark 7 or a conversion sat at left tilt with a sanding disk on it and a average height person standing next to the headstock?

(with the legs on it) :-)


.

Whose 'average'? Not u n me!:D

I'm about the length of a band saw blade! ;>}

JPG, could you provide these two dimensions. tia!
[ATTACH]13223[/ATTACH]

prmindartmouth wrote:JPG, could you provide these two dimensions. tia!
[ATTACH]13223[/ATTACH]

1/2" from the edge. Centered L-R.

The knob was a Model 10 table height lock that had a broken brass stud. I removed the brass stud and replaced it with a steel cut off 3/8-16 screw. the conical end was ground/filed.

I would not use this without beefing up the thin web that the screw is in presently. It served as a prototype/conceptual experiment. My thinking is a 1/4" aluminum(or steel) plate that continues the threads already in the web.

P.S. The 'extra' tapped hole was a 'goof'!

Nice execution of your "experiment". It got me thinking.
Buy a hinge section for,say, $20 incl shipping off you know where and convert one of my two 510's permanently.
Or buy an extra table and reverse it's legs, likely cost $150 plus. Or, cheaper yet, make the legs of one existing table easily reverseable, perhaps not that easy to do. Any advise on that thought?

Or probably best of all, order the real Mccoy from Shopsmith, who seem to have done an excellent job of designing this extra capability for the SS.
So many projects, so little time!;)

[quote="prmindartmouth"]Nice execution of your "experiment". It got me thinking.
Buy a hinge section for,say, $50 incl shipping off you know where and convert one of my two 510's permanently.
Or buy an extra table and reverse it's legs, likely cost $150 plus. Or, cheaper yet, make the legs of one existing table easily reverseable, perhaps not that easy to do. Any advise on that thought?

Or probably best of all, order the real Mccoy from Shopsmith, who seem to have done an excellent job of designing this extra capability for the SS.
So many projects, so little time!]

Reversing the legs is not difficult. Simply drive out the pins, rotate the legs and reinsert the pin. I recommend a new pin though I have changed mine twice using the same pin.

The number of times that you can do this is, IMO, limited.

Without a reversible motor, I see very little utility in the left tilt; all you gain is an under the table router (which I have now).