Shopsmith Forums

If I had that problem and felt it was a problem Well, actually I would just look in the shed for another table without the problem... But to cure that table I would "GENTLY" attack it with a good center punch or prick punch and tighten the slot "CAREFULLY".
I would scribe a light line along the edge of the slot about 3/16ths of an inch (arbitrary dimension like much of what I do) from the edge then make a series of light cross marks the full length of the slot about 1/2" apart (another arbitrary dimension)
Then I would start down the line "GENTLY" punching at each cross mark checking constantly with a miter bar for fit. I would continue punching (evenly the full length of the table) until the the slot got a little snug by the same amount all along the slot. At that point I would then cut a stick that would fit the slot a bit snug with a piece of emery cloth attached to it and start lightly sanding down the up-set edge to the point that the miter gauge slid easily but without slop... The row of punch marks might also need a little smoothing on the table top with a bit of light sanding.
Yep, that is what I would do.

robinson46176 wrote:If I had that problem and felt it was a problem Well, actually I would just look in the shed for another table without the problem... But to cure that table I would "GENTLY" attack it with a good center punch or prick punch and tighten the slot "CAREFULLY".
I would scribe a light line along the edge of the slot about 3/16ths of an inch (arbitrary dimension like much of what I do) from the edge then make a series of light cross marks the full length of the slot about 1/2" apart (another arbitrary dimension)
Then I would start down the line "GENTLY" punching at each cross mark checking constantly with a miter bar for fit. I would continue punching (evenly the full length of the table) until the the slot got a little snug by the same amount all along the slot. At that point I would then cut a stick that would fit the slot a bit snug with a piece of emery cloth attached to it and start lightly sanding down the up-set edge to the point that the miter gauge slid easily but without slop... The row of punch marks might also need a little smoothing on the table top with a bit of light sanding.
Yep, that is what I would do.

Sounds like somebody with a grainary full of ss tables!:D

beeg wrote:ANY question here needs an answer.

Yes indeed! The sloppy miter gauge bar is a common concern!

I do not think it had been examined so closely before today! The answer appears to be that it is not something to lose sleep over!

Had you NOT asked the question, that examination would not have taken place nor the conclusion arrived at!

Thank You for asking!!!!!;)

robinson46176 wrote:... Yep, that is what I would do.

Now THAT sounds like a solution. I just might give it a try. If all else fails I can get a replacement table from SDSSmith.

Thanks again everyone.

robinson46176 wrote:If I had that problem and felt it was a problem Well, actually I would just look in the shed for another table without the problem... But to cure that table I would "GENTLY" attack it with a good center punch or prick punch and tighten the slot "CAREFULLY".
I would scribe a light line along the edge of the slot about 3/16ths of an inch (arbitrary dimension like much of what I do) from the edge then make a series of light cross marks the full length of the slot about 1/2" apart (another arbitrary dimension)
Then I would start down the line "GENTLY" punching at each cross mark checking constantly with a miter bar for fit. I would continue punching (evenly the full length of the table) until the the slot got a little snug by the same amount all along the slot. At that point I would then cut a stick that would fit the slot a bit snug with a piece of emery cloth attached to it and start lightly sanding down the up-set edge to the point that the miter gauge slid easily but without slop... The row of punch marks might also need a little smoothing on the table top with a bit of light sanding.
Yep, that is what I would do.

I understand the principle that you are proposing with the punch marks but are you punch the miter track or the miter bar.

In your explanation it sounds as though you are punching the table (along side the miter track). Does cast react the same as hard metals? OR Does it react like stone and eventually crack along the impact points?

If I had a shed full of tables, I'd go find an old beat up one and check this for myself:rolleyes:.