Shopsmith Forums

Re the spherical washer. When removing the pinion shaft tie a string on the end of the shaft on the operator's side and you won't lose the washer. Use the string again when reinstalling the shaft. (ask me how I know:eek: )
My quill developed a drag some time ago and I cured it after all the normal remedies were exhausted. Inspect the inside of the bore in the headstock casting and see if there are any black deposits in the bore. If there are any remove them by tying some scotch abrasive material on a stick and apply some paint thinner or solvent to the abrasive and scrub the inside of the bore clean. The black stuff will be accumulated wax from previous waxings and can build up over a long time. DO NOt USE AN ABRASIVE THAT WILL REMOVE METAL!!! The clearances are very close. Then rewax the quill and buff.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:Re the spherical washer. When removing the pinion shaft tie a string on the end of the shaft on the operator's side and you won't lose the washer.

NOW you tell me...

But seriously, Thanks for the tip. After upgrading to the PowerPro, there is no way to reinstall the washer without removing the motor.

michaeltoc wrote:NOW you tell me...

But seriously, Thanks for the tip. After upgrading to the PowerPro, there is no way to reinstall the washer without removing the motor.

And to 'reinsert'???????


WHOOPS - You just said that!

I was given and old `83 Mark V with great SPTs and other goodies.

I took the quill apart since I thought the spring was broke. When I retracted the quill in and out, it was like the quill was trying to catch on something inside.

After dis assembly I found the spring had just come off the pin that holds it to the quill.

When I reattached it, reassembled it and kept tension on it it seemed to be fine.

However when I put it in the head stock . . . it came off the pin and now I have the repeat situation.

Any ideas on a permanent solution would be welcome.

Thanks

Hi,

If we assume that everything is in good working order then the procedure is to crank the quill spring about 3 turns* before you start the quill feeding into the housing. The important thing to remember is to turn the right direction, even a little turn in the wrong direction when you start lets the spring slip off the pin. Like wise when you unwind the spring, go just far enough so the handle doesn't fly back, if it flies back the spring will come off the pin.

I still remember many years back, it was a hot summer day and I thought rather then having sawdust sticking to my arms I do a cleanup and wax job on my machine. The spring housing had quite a bit of saw dust in it and I pulled the spring out to clean it all up. Of course as I was sweating trying to get it back together I thought to myself I'll never do this again...

As I cooled down I looked at what was happening and how it should go, got it together and then took it apart again, several time until I could master it in no time at all. After that it was easy, and just another part of working on the shopsmith.

Ed

*I find this a good starting spot but sometimes it is spring/machine dependent and I fine adjust, either way so it feels like what I want, not to hard not to soft.

If the spring is slightly curved in the pin slot area, it will wedge between the pin head and the shaft. This minimizes the potential for it 'sliding off'.

Now retensioning to get it into the housing - perseverance!

After having the identical problem with the spring coming loose, With the spring installed on the stud, I was able to take a flat blade screwdriver and bend the tips up where the large hole changes to a slot that prevented the spring from easily slipping back off the stud. This may not prevent the spring from slipping off if the shaft was turned in the wrong direction or the handle was let go when the spring is compressed with no quill installed. I only did this one time many years ago after several failed attempts.