Shopsmith Forums

shwacknyon

I hope that your repair works for you but just a word to the wise. You still might start looking for a replacement motor. The temperature around those coils can easily reach between 150 - 200 degree C if you are using your Shopsmith for long periods of time and the motor will eventually fail at the weakest point which will be where that wire overheated and burned up. You also might notice that if you get your motor running that it just doesn't have the power that it should have due to additional damage that we couldn't see to the coil. Of course you could just prove me wrong and it could work just fine. Be interesting to see what happens. Please respond back to this thread after you try to repair.

shwacknyon wrote:The strands on the lower end of the pic are the cords (I don't know what the are made of) that are holding the windings together. I have attached another pic that shows this a little better.

[ATTACH]12591[/ATTACH]

The lacing twine is waxed string that is used to tie the wires away and hold them in position. Primarily for assembly, but they do prevent movement. It is difficult to determine if the light colored wire surfaces are actually where the insulating varnish was rubbed off or a reflection off the flash. It is also not clear if discoloration of wires further 'in' the winding are damaged from overheating, or the recipient of that 'soot'!

In any event action as previously mentioned MAY prove successful. Also as just mentioned, the permanence of a fix is indeterminate.


BTW Excellent pix!!!!!!

Please take one more pix of the completed repair. I suggest you do that prior to reassembly in case we might see something amiss.


Do realize this may not work for long(if at all), but it is definitely worth a shot!

Subsequent blowing out of the motor will help keep internal temps down and reduce the chance of subsequent failure.

A lot of patience, a little liquid electrical tape, a piece of heat shrink tubing, an inch and a half of wire, and ERIKA I have a working motor again!!!! A bit better than a couple hundred dollars I'd say. I guess not the question is how long will it last. Thanks all for the help.

shwacknyon wrote:A lot of patience, a little liquid electrical tape, a piece of heat shrink tubing, an inch and a half of wire, and ERIKA I have a working motor again!!!! A bit better than a couple hundred dollars I'd say. I guess not the question is how long will it last. Thanks all for the help.

What is the temperature tolerance of the 'liquid electrical tape'? The insulating varnish used on the wire is high temperature tolerant.

Do open it up and examine that if smoke or other indications of the 'tape' failing occur.

If there are/were no shorts in the coil wiring, what caused the heat that discolored the wires, melted the varnish and burned the lacing tape?

Stitch wrote:If there are/were no shorts in the coil wiring, what caused the heat that discolored the wires, melted the varnish and burned the lacing tape?

The loose bearing retaining bolt came in contact with that wire and simultaneously a grounded part of the armature or winding core. The resultant arc vaporized the small area around the 'point of contact' and left the black debris in its wake. It also caused the lacing twine to either be burned or more likely the twine was cut by the bolt mechanically.

It was fortunate that more severe damage did not occur.

I be curious if a dwelling circuit breaker was tripped at the time of the damage.

The liquid tape will assuredly not last. I would have soldered and used heat shrink tubing which is much more tolerant of higher temps than liquid tape. It would have been very easy to slip the heat shrink onto one end of the seperated wire and then shrink it down. Good luck and keep a fire extinguisher at the ready!

The liquid tape should be good to up to 200 degrees F. Is that not going to be good enough? I guess either way I need to keep an eye on it. Here is the pic of the final patch job.

shwacknyon wrote:The liquid tape should be good to up to 200 degrees F. Is that not going to be good enough? I guess either way I need to keep an eye on it. Here is the pic of the final patch job.

Glad to hear it is capable of tolerating 200 F. Only thing I see is that it would have been better to position the splice down lower(away from the armature) back and in that depresion(valley).

[ATTACH]12611[/ATTACH]

Other than that it looks good!

Did you solder, or just twist(tightly I hope)?

I twisted and crimped the wires together. I hope it holds. I guess I will find out if not.