Shopsmith Forums

ddvann79 wrote:You are correct, Dave. I have a bolt-on rail and the extension table has the cast rail. The extension table was not the original for this machine. That would explain the difference in lengths. I also like your solution of using a main table for an extension. That was my original reason for getting an extra main. You have devised a good solution to chopping down the cast cross member of the main table to fit the narrower tubes.

All Greenies and Gilmer Goldies have the cast in rail on the main work table.

ALL Mark 5 and Mark V extension tables(narrow original ones) also have the cast in rail.

Poly-v Goldies and later Mark5 and early Mark V have the extruded rail on the main worktable.

The miter gauge bridging 'problem' is due to the casting rails varying. They are cast, not machined.

The length variation I do not unnerstand! Could it be a 1/4" front to rear offset? It should be adjustable! Those are small screws in large holes(slotted front to rear).

In any event, the extension table should be aligned to provide the same blade/fence alignment as on the main table(the fence is not adjusted, only the extension table). Those screws on the front of the fence should be retracted so as to not touch the rail. They be there to intentionally skew the alignment for disk sanding. I have no idea why later Mark V 500 fences had two screws!!!:eek:

I love the conversion of a second main table into an extension table. What a great solution on the 500s. I might just do that even though I now have the 510 with extra floating tables and an extra extension. I've gotta set that all up and post a pic. With all that stuff, my 510 has pretty much one continuous table wider than the machine under it! I may never put a saw blade on the 500 again, except to use my wobble dado (until I can get a dado insert for the 510 that is).

judaspre1982 wrote:Hi Dalton
I see from your restor pics that you have the main table that has the bolt on front rail. My main table/front rail was cast in one piece.Is your extension table front rail bolted on or cast? If cast, that may account for the 1/4" difference.
I was able to get my Greenie extension table to line up with the main table pretty well on the left side, but if you switch to the right, it's out of alignment.
The extra saw slot sure has been helpful.I used an extra main table I had to make an extra wide extension table that also gives you the added benefit of having two more miter slots. Some guys add an extra carriage to mount a 2nd main table, but I chose to do it this way.
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I use this machine mostly as a lathe and wanted to keep the full width capacity.If I mounted a 2nd carriage to the right I would loose some width.

Dave

Your "L' angle brackets looks very identifical to the brackets I made to mount the 500 main table on the bandsaw in place of the steel table. I had to notch a couple places was the only difference.

I found I could cut off both 500 main table legs and use a same "L" angle brackets welded to the trunnion bar. Then align the modified 500 table fence rails so the fence can pass over both tables and then welded the legs set in the SPT holes on either the headrest & base arm to the "L" bracket. This allows the second modified 500 main table to be tilted on either end of the Shopsmith.