SS bug strikes a 3rd time

[JPG]

The key bend is under the idler sheave. There is a depression in the shaft that the bend sets in. The clip removal allows the idler sheave to slide out and off the end of the idler shaft which will then allow removal of the key.

If you removed the two washers and the retaining clip, the shaft should push out towards the worm gear. Look for burrs at the retaining clip groove(and the rest of the shaft).

[fiatben]

got the idler/control sheave assembly apart and cleaned up. It slides freely now. Had to buff some corrosion off the shaft and the key. Lubed it with spray silicon.
[ATTACH]13560[/ATTACH]

The quadrant shows amazingly little wear on the teeth.
[ATTACH]13561[/ATTACH]
It has been taken apart, cleaned and lubed as well. Even painted the spring clip to prevent further rust.

What is the best way to clean the handles, knobs, etc.? Specifically, the speed indicator ring is really cruddy and I'd like it to shine.

The bearings all seem to be really solid. How does one check all the bearings for play/wear?

Still need to finish "polishing" the motor/floating sheaves, but I know how to put the spring back on (well, a way that worked for me) using an old edger blade (which has conveniently a right-sized hole in it).
[ATTACH]13562[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

got the idler/control sheave assembly apart and cleaned up. It slides freely now. Had to buff some corrosion off the shaft and the key. Lubed it with spray silicon.yOU DON'T LIKE OIL???
[ATTACH]13560[/ATTACH]

The quadrant shows amazingly little wear on the teeth.
[ATTACH]13561[/ATTACH]
It has been taken apart, cleaned and lubed as well. Even painted the spring clip to prevent further rust.

What is the best way to clean the handles, knobs, etc.? Specifically, the speed indicator ring is really cruddy and I'd like it to shine.I use fine 8" wire brush, then citrustrip. I do not go all the way to high polish.

The bearings all seem to be really solid. How does one check all the bearings for play/wear? Roll smoothly(no bumpiness), minimal wobble, minimal coasting(dry = coast).

Still need to finish "polishing" the motor/floating sheaves, but I know how to put the spring back on (well, a way that worked for me) using an old edger blade (which has conveniently a right-sized hole in it).
[ATTACH]13562[/ATTACH]

See de blue

[fiatben]

I was trying to disassemble the worktable. The stop screws for the 90 and 45 stop settings were stuck. I put some penetrating oil on them and let them soak. Last night I tried to remove them. The "90" came out but the "45" sheared at the head of the screw. Do I have to (carefully) drill it out, or should I just hope it's "close enough" and not worry about it?

Also, is it possible to pull the front trunnion and clean everything up, or better to leave it where it is and clean it as best I can?

One more question: is there a good way to peal the WARNING label off the casting? The old one is completely faded away and I want to paint the headstock.

[fiatben]

Got the carriage apart and began cleaning rust off the rods, etc.

Still wondering about how to take the front trunnion assembly apart to really clean it good before repainting.

Got the citrustrip out, now just to find time to strip everything down.

Still got to take the casters apart and fix them up.

Glad I got the other two to work with while I play at refurbing this one.

[fiatben]

so I'm trying to get back to this little project. Turns out this one already has a home once I get it back together. My son-in-law needed a drill press and I sold him on the idea of having so much more. Now I need to finish it.

I took JPG's idea of the PVC tubes and Evaporust. After several days of soaking, the tubes aren't really any better. Oh, it pulled plenty of rust, nearly turning to black sludge, but the tubes still have rust on them and significant pitting. Not sure what to do next. Maybe I'll have a go at mounting them lathe-style and taking sandpaper to them. Anyone got great, easy suggestions?

I'd post before and afters if anyone's interested, but there is no significant change between them.

[beeg]

Yep POST the before and after pics, then the after after pic.

[SDSSmith]

so I'm trying to get back to this little project. Turns out this one already has a home once I get it back together. My son-in-law needed a drill press and I sold him on the idea of having so much more. Now I need to finish it.

I took JPG's idea of the PVC tubes and Evaporust. After several days of soaking, the tubes aren't really any better. Oh, it pulled plenty of rust, nearly turning to black sludge, but the tubes still have rust on them and significant pitting. Not sure what to do next. Maybe I'll have a go at mounting them lathe-style and taking sandpaper to them. Anyone got great, easy suggestions?

I'd post before and afters if anyone's interested, but there is no significant change between them.

You will probably have to live with the pitting. I chuck the tubes up in one of my Mark V's and use old pieces of sanding belt to clean them up. I support the free end with a board that is clamped to the extension table legs. The board has a couple of rollerblade wheels mounted proud of the edge for the tube to roll on. Works for me...

[JPG]

so I'm trying to get back to this little project. Turns out this one already has a home once I get it back together. My son-in-law needed a drill press and I sold him on the idea of having so much more. Now I need to finish it.

I took JPG's idea of the PVC tubes and Evaporust. After several days of soaking, the tubes aren't really any better. Oh, it pulled plenty of rust, nearly turning to black sludge, but the tubes still have rust on them and significant pitting. Not sure what to do next. Maybe I'll have a go at mounting them lathe-style and taking sandpaper to them. Anyone got great, easy suggestions?

I'd post before and afters if anyone's interested, but there is no significant change between them.

The evaporust does get depleted. If you gots sludge and still some rust, I think fresh evaporust is indicated. Keep in mind the part will acquire a thin layer of black oxide.

I do recommend spinning them to polish.

I would not get too excited re pitting. They will function with all but total surface removal as long as the surface is reasonably smooth..

[fiatben]

I think I could have spent more on EvapoRust than I had in the machine and not got what I want. So I turned to jam chucks, drilled the centers for 3/8" rod, and mounted them on the Jacob's chuck on my 500 and sanded away. The tubes are heavily pitted but clean and smooth once again, and work great. Of course, they've also been waxed so that we don't have to do this again.

Meanwhile, this machine is now going to one of my son-in-laws who was looking for a drill press and I offered him this as an alternative. Who knows, maybe he'll even do some woodworking with it.

Here's the problem. The switch died. I have found a 20A replacement at a local big box store, but the old switch had 4 leads, this one has 2. My inclination was to tie the blacks together with a wire nut and wire the whites in series thru the switch (just like a light switch), but then I got to worrying about the load of start-up thru the 20A switch. I know it should be enough, but I thought I'd ask my experts before I did this little modification.

Tomorrow I fix the switch, find accessories and get this Mark V ready for a trip to Tulsa to a new home.

Thanks guys.