Shopsmith Forums

Gene Howe wrote:Dan,
I understand about the lack of supplies. Here in N. AZ, we envy the Somalians.
Here's a link to a site in the states.
Chairloc

This looks good. I could reassemble that puppy and put Chair-Loc on order and consider it almost done.

Thanks.

Hi...,
Nice post and thanks for sharing it.Its looking really nice.My dear l love antique furniture style.I have also two chairs that look grandma's chairs.
Have nice day....
Kitchen cabinets washington

to Dan1999

Lee Valley sells a similar product, Chair Doctor Glue
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30261&cat=1,110,30261

Could be time for a romantic weekend in Ottawa with some site seeing (Oh look Dear, there's a Lee Valley store)

Thanks for the tip Ron, actually my only brother lives in Ottawa so when I say to HIH (her imperial highness aka the wife) that I feel like visiting my brother she knows that its Lee Valley time and Red Lobster time for her. So it works out.

Dan:D

I am going to take the safe way out; safe because I don't have to dismantle the chair. I am waiting on a bottle of ChairLoc.

To keep HIH (aka SWMBO) satisfied, I have been cleaning the chair using soft rags and TSP. I also did a test application of a furniture oil that she uses.

I just may avoid a possible disaster. Thanks to you guys.:)

Dusty,
That bottle of Chairloc will last you a loooong time. But, if you ever need any more, I saw a display of it at WW's Source on Paloverde.

Dusty
It seems you got the direction before I got here. I would use a product like chair loc also. If any pieces come off easily and can be put back easily I would use regular glue but for all other loose joints I would use the chair loc product.

On the refinish you might consider Bri Wax, it contains pigment and will cover a mulitude of sins. However it is tricky to use. Too thick a coat and you will never get it off. To thin and the coloring effect is non existent. One thing if you get it on too thick to rub off. Apply more of the product the solvent carrier will allow you to remore the excess. It comes in assorted colors and like rubbing oil you determine the darkness of the color by how much product is on the piece.

Another finisher is the one you mentioned rubbing oil, again it is offered in many different colors and be mixed to match most anything.

One things I did was used a stain colored oil I mixed using equal part Tung oil and poly with enough oil based stain to get the color I wanted.

On one project I had to match color of the wood. I applied oil only I used a wet and dry sanding paper to rub it on with. What that accomplished was the sand paper created sawdust from the piece mixed with a poly oil it became it's own coloring agent. It filled in some open pores, tiny cracks and small scratches. When finished the piece looked perfect.

Chairloc and I do not make a perfect team. I got some joints tightened up real good while others were not so great. Some joints were just too loose and I should have glued those right from the git-go.

Bad news. The remaining loose joints are not loose enough to pull apart and glue; restricted by those that are secure.

I would not make it in an antique repair shop.

SWMBO is not overly pleased.:mad::(

As a last resort, is it possible to trickle some thin(runny) CA into the loose joints?

[quote="dusty"]Chairloc and I do not make a perfect team. I got some joints tightened up real good while others were not so great. Some joints were just too loose and I should have glued those right from the git-go.

Bad news. The remaining loose joints are not loose enough to pull apart and glue]

Do you know any body with diabetes? If you do see if they will give you a few needles. My daughter is a hospice nurse and she has given me some horse needles (at least that is how they seem). Once you have the needle fill it with glue and give the joints an injection. Some times I have to water down the glue just a bit to get it flow out the needle. For wider joints try epoxy or a glue sawdust mixture. Lastly there is a product it looks like tin foil but you pull the joint apart enough to wrap it over the dowel end and reinsert it back in the hole. It fills the gaps.

Last ditch drill a 1/4" hole for the back side of the hole so you go right into bottom of the hole and up through the dowel end. Then insert a dowel of the same wood as the chair and trim flush. My neighbor is a upholsterer and he does this all the time with priceless articles and once he is done you can not tell he ever did anything.