Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:I offer my thinking(?).

Tis true that the workpiece can get wedged between the fence and the back side of the blade and cause kickback.

Now applying pressure towards the blade with a featherboard on the 'other' side will push the cutoff side to ride against the back side of the blade. Not a pinch to be sure, but an opportunity for grabbing none the less.

I can see the 'logic' in applying this force to prevent the workpiece from drifting away from the fence past the blade, but still it is not a good idea. I doubt it would work well considering the kerf.

If you have been successful in doing so, you can thank the riving knife.

dusty wrote:Like I said, I occasionally install a feather board on the back side but I am not certain of the situation. MEANING: I am not sure that I have done this while ripping. I gotta think about it.

Don't rush me. I'm getting too old to rush! I'll think about it and if it comes to mind - I'll post. I might even do pictures.

Then again, I might be all wrong. I do that from time to time too.

wesimmonds wrote:All of the comments have persuaded me to buy some feather boards. I am beginning to get the impression that feather boards are almost a necessity for working safely.

anmius wrote:You don't have to buy them. As a woodworker it can be fun to make your own. And you can make them to fit the specific circumstance you need. Search this forum for feather boards and you will see some that many here have made. And if you Google feather boards, you will probably end up with hundreds of variations. They aren't difficult to make and are a great use for some of your "shorts" or scrap.