Shopsmith Forums

paulrussell wrote:Ok, I've not been entirely clear in my descriptions, so here is a drawing: https://picasaweb.google.com/paul.r.harker/WorkshopAndTools?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCKTGmPyTk5vsrQE&feat=directlink

The green circle is my proposed location of the DC3300. I intend to close off the right end of the area it is in to keep sawdust from migrating into the remainder of the basement storage area. The blue rectangles are the current outlets, with the 15a being shared with the bathroom. The sump pump circuit is also 15a. Breaker panel is at other end of house, about 40 feet from closest corner of workshop. However, the path is unfinished so no drywall etc to impede adding circuits.

What is the 'ELEC.' box in the lower left corner?

As far as running the new wire(s), it may be possible(local code?) to run through the joists(center location). It could be 12-3wg from the breaker box to a junction/receptacle box in the shop.

Optionally run across the bottom of the joists, but I would only do so next to a wall. I assume the joists are running from top to bottom in your pix.

Being a basement, EMT(or plastic) may be required from ceiling down to the device boxes.

ELEC was where the service entrance would have been if we had built on a different lot. :-(

Anyone have experience with adding a sub-panel for a basement workshop? Seems that if I were to run a 40A or 60A 240 from the main service to a sub-panel I would have the flexibility to go in many directions. Dunno about the cost though.

Right now I'm leaning heavily toward OSB walls, painted white. JPG's idea of painting the joists white is appealing and leaves future options open.

I've decided to go the OSB route for several reasons.
1) More resistant to damage
2) A bit better for mounting things to wall.
3) If I use screws to install it, pulling it for later access, repair, or modification is trivial compared to drywall.
4) I plan to mount the majority of AC outlets at waist or counter height. If I were to convert this room to a bedroom I'd need to relocate the power. With drywall that could be quite a bother. With OSB, it is just a matter of taking out the OSB and starting over with a clean slate.

Regarding resale -- We currently can't see a future where we would need a fifth bedroom. While plans admittedly do change without notice, my wife and I (53 years old) plan on staying here for at least the next 20 years. Maybe I'll feel different at age 75, but I'd rather build my workshop to meet my needs, not the needs of the next fellow down the line. We put a lot of thought into this house. If health and life dictate, we can live on a single floor. The laundry and master suite are on the ground floor. My wife is a healthcare professional and is forever telling me of patients who have had to sell their houses because they can no longer navigate stairs. Hopefully that will never be an issue, but ya never know.

Re Subpanel.

Breaker in main box sized same as sub panel 'main'.

Sub Panel includes incoming 'main' (for the sub panel) breaker sized properly for the intended use.

Sub panel includes individual breaker(or pairs for 230v) for each branch circuit.

This increases the wire size requirement for the cable from the existing breaker panel to the sub panel. The distance also affects the wire size.

This is also referred to as a feeder circuit.

I am not sure what size sub panels are currently available, but we must consider also the current(no pun intended) capacity of the existing breaker panel.

40A sub panel would allow for a single 230v 20A branch and two 115V 20A branches(assumes simultaneously maximum loaded circuits - not likely to occur). Panel would require space for the incoming main and circuit breakers. That is probably as large as you would need to have.

60A would be the next practical size(IMHO), but do realize a half century or so ago, that was the typical size for an entire house and half or more of that was for a range(cooking stove).

40A breakers are less expensive than larger capacity breakers and consume less panel space(panels are sized according to the number of breaker poles that can be installed). Larger two pole breakers may require more than a pair of positions.



Unless you are very comfortable doing this yourself, I recommend the assistance of a qualified electrician. They will know the local codes.

Years ago I added sub panels a couple different times. Never had any problems with any of them. I would recommend if you are the least bit unfamiliar with doing this it is time to bring a qualified person to do it for you. The cost should not be prohibitive and you will sleep better at night just knowing you did the right thing...

I am very comfortable doing home wiring. Helped my dad rewire an old home when I was 16, and have been working with electronics and electricity ever since. The only issues I have are making sure I comply with code, which can be remedied with a bit of self-education.

Current thinking on the electrical issue:

Wire workshop with separate line to outlets on each wall, joined at common junction box (using existing 20a dedicated as feed).

Wall with junction box is open on back (the 6x20 storage area) and based on my layout plans, is also the only wall where I envision the possibly of needing 220.

If single 20a feed proves insufficient, I have the following options:
1) Add additional 110/20a feed(s) and split current distribution.
2) Add 220 20A dedicated feed if/when needed.
3) Add 220 40A feed and replace junction box with sub-panel.

In all honesty, I doubt if I'd really consider option 2, but I'm just trying to be thorough.

But back to my original thoughts -- right now I want to get a workshop up and running, and using the existing 20A feed is the most time/cost efficient, and if I wire each wall separately, rather than daisy-chain, I have not tied my hands in any way. At least that's how I see it, but I could easily be overlooking something. (such as unknown code restrictions - I plan on talking with the county inspector in the very near future.)