Shopsmith Forums

Being the persnickety detail individual that I am, I must state the following.

The position on the blade on the top wheel(and thence by unfettered tracking the lower wheel) is controlled by the 'tracking bearing' just prior to the blade contacting the upper wheel as they turn. This is the unique detail that makes 'us(ss)' different.

The bearings near the blade 'guides' should be adjusted to just touch the back of the blade(lower guide) and just clear the blade(upper guide). The guide bearings prevent cutting pressure forcing the blade further back onto the lower wheel.

The guides prevent cutting pressure from twisting the blade.

I really wonder where this was sourced("He also stated that a properly tuned saw has no drift. If your saw has drift it is not set uo correctly, or you are using the wrong blade, or the blade needs replaced.").

I would look askance at anything else from thar!:D

dusty wrote:I am happy to hear that you have the problem fixed. It is now sawdust time.

I get the impression that his journey has or is about to begin(alignment). Not sure he is ready to cre8 sawdust yet.

JPG40504 wrote: I really wonder where this was sourced("He also stated that a properly tuned saw has no drift. If your saw has drift it is not set uo correctly, or you are using the wrong blade, or the blade needs replaced.").

I remember seeing an article to that effect in Fine Woodworking a couple years back. I think the author had enough experience to make his bandsaw his "go-to" saw for ripping and everything. He didn't skimp on blades, obviously, but he didn't settle for drift as a given, either.

nuhobby wrote:I remember seeing an article to that effect in Fine Woodworking a couple years back. I think the author had enough experience to make his bandsaw his "go-to" saw for ripping and everything. He didn't skimp on blades, obviously, but he didn't settle for drift as a given, either.

That makes sense(for him). The rest of us cannot afford 'perfect' blades. Bet his bandsaw wasn't cheap either!

Different world altogether.

P.S. Even Shipwright 'accommodates' drift.

nuhobby wrote:I remember seeing an article to that effect in Fine Woodworking a couple years back. I think the author had enough experience to make his bandsaw his "go-to" saw for ripping and everything. He didn't skimp on blades, obviously, but he didn't settle for drift as a given, either.

saw alex snodgrass (sp?) at the woodworking show this past weekend and he said basically what was quoted before - stating blade "drift" is simply a poorly configured saw. Granted, he was pitching carter guides at the time, so its likely that "correctly" configured means using their guides and blades

[quote="damagi"]saw alex snodgrass (sp?) at the woodworking show this past weekend and he said basically what was quoted before - stating blade "drift" is simply a poorly configured saw. Granted, he was pitching carter guides at the time, so its likely that "correctly" configured means using their guides and blades ]

If that be true, how come:

Abrading the 'aggressive' side reduces it.

Other folks(alot of em) have tips relating to how to overcome it.

I do not think Carter guides will eliminate it.

I really don't know what kind of blade you can buy that won't exhibit some drift, but I do know that you can pay in the neighborhood of $30.00 for a bandsaw blade and experience drift. Highland Hardware makes and sells Wood Slicer bandsaw baldes that will cost you $30.00 for one that fits the Shopsmith. Now if you go to their site -- http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood ... to137.aspx -- and watch a video there on setting up a bandsaw to use a Wood Slicer blade, you will get an explanation of how to compensate for drift.

I have seen ads for bandsaw blades that do not produce drift. They are "precision ground" NOT sharpened. It is my opinion that they are NOT for common wood workers.

I don't recall the price but I do remember that my immediate reaction was "not for me".

For us common wood workers (put yourself in a different class if you so feel), drift is something that we will most likely have to learn to compensate for. Now I have had a couple blades that produced no drift but they were definitely the exceptions. I do not count on that ever happening again.

Why is it that I feel like I have taken a lashing? Guess what I stated as reading in an article didn't fall into the general consenus that maybe something a bit different might work better for some of us.
I also was at the Woodworking Show in Sacramento and sat in on a demo by the same Alex Snodgrass, who was demoing Carter Products. The man, in my opinion know as lot about bandsaws. A whole lot more than myself.
In the future I will keep my ideas and opinions to myself. Sorry to have bothered you all, I thought most of you were more open minded than this. have a good day.........

baysidebob wrote:Why is it that I feel like I have taken a lashing? Guess what I stated as reading in an article didn't fall into the general consenus that maybe something a bit different might work better for some of us.
I also was at the Woodworking Show in Sacramento and sat in on a demo by the same Alex Snodgrass, who was demoing Carter Products. The man, in my opinion know as lot about bandsaws. A whole lot more than myself.
In the future I will keep my ideas and opinions to myself. Sorry to have bothered you all, I thought most of you were more open minded than this. have a good day.........

I am sorry you feel insulted. I am pleased you shared your opinions and hope you will continue to do so. I can understand your feelings. In one of my earliest posts I shared an idea and was soundly deflated by a couple of our members. I went for a long time afraid to post my project pictures. Then one day a member referred to my very first project post as one of the best of its type he had come across. I don't really believe anyone was attempting to insult you or the info you so capably presented. Keep up the good work. Fjimp