Shopsmith Forums

alfatipo wrote:I think I have the latter material. I 'll be more persistent with the screwdriver.

The set screw in question stops the quill from sliding out.

On top of the headstock I hope!;)

Both 'plugs' have (OK, only one has now) center pinholes so a drill can be used to remove (most of) the material. Going to try that today.

alfatipo wrote:Both 'plugs' have (OK, only one has now) center pinholes so a drill can be used to remove (most of) the material. Going to try that today.

Be careful. Using a drill you stand a chance of destroying needed threads in the hole.

Patience and a pick (awl) is the method I recommend.

A distinct lack of patience has got me into trouble before but I'm thinking the needed threads will be protected by the set screw.

I started with an awl so I'll finish the first hole with it then see about the 2nd.

Any thoughts on what the issue could be? To recap; with the quill extended there is movement but not if the quill is locked in position. When the quill is fully retracted and unlocked it is wobble-less.

When extended and unlocked moving the quill is felt in the quill feed handle.

[quote="alfatipo"]A distinct lack of patience has got me into trouble before but I'm thinking the needed threads will be protected by the set screw.

I started with an awl so I'll finish the first hole with it then see about the 2nd.

Any thoughts on what the issue could be? To recap]
I am not surprised that you can feel quill movement in the quill feed handle. The two are loosely connected to one another.

I am also not surprised that locking the quill reduces ones ability to feel quill movement. When not locked and fully extended, I would expect the quill to movement minimally but freely.

It is difficult for me to understand wobble-less when retracted and unlocked.

The setscrew (top of the headstock) should not be screwed in tight enough to have any effect on quill movement other than rotation. The set screw rides in a groove on top of the quill housing. To adjust that setscrew one should move the quill out (extend it) about two inches and tighten the set screw down enough to hold it there when the quill handle is released. Then - loosen the set screw just enough so that the quill is retracted by the spring tension.

If excessive wobble at the quill is detected, I suspect nothing other than bad bearing(s). Wobble of a drill bit could be the result of improper mounting of the bit, defective arbor, bent drill bit or improperly mounted arbor. If this is suspected - change to a saw blade and arbor and check for run out (blade wobble).

If wobble is detected under both configurations - it is my opinion that you are back to quill bearings.

If it was the bearings wouldn't you still get the wobble when the quill is locked?

alfatipo wrote:If it was the bearings wouldn't you still get the wobble when the quill is locked?

Sounds reasonable.

Re drilling the setscrew - You want to be only drilling the filler, no part of the screw!!!

You need those flats and that is not an easily replaced screw from the typical big box store.

I fear you will become even more agitated if you do get the quill out. The splined shaft really exhibits wobble when out of its sleeve.

I have used a small sharp bladed screw driver with a blade width small than the hex flats.


FWIW with the quill 'unlocked' it does have slop but that slop is in the quill not the shaft. Methinks you are expecting too much 'tightness'

Well, I drilled the sucker. No fear of damaging a hardened set screw. Brad point drill left just enough filler (Could be solder?) to easily pry out.

I think the problem could the plastic/nylon(?) drive sleeve that the quill splines slide in. Are these a regular wear item?

JPG: The splined shaft really exhibits wobble when out of its sleeve.

The quill assembly once removed has barely perceptible movement so I doubt the bearings are the issue.

I would imagine if the router/drum sander/shaper/molder is used when the quill is extended that would wear/stretch the plastic drive sleeve that the quill splines slide into. Side force rather than vertical. Reasonable?

Actually horizontal bored today as well. A win after a few losing days. There was sawdust on the floor!



ps I know the dowel holes aren't centered just want to use the damn machine.

alfatipo wrote:Well, I drilled the sucker. No fear of damaging a hardened set screw. Brad point drill left just enough filler (Could be solder?) to easily pry out.

I think the problem could the plastic/nylon(?) drive sleeve that the quill splines slide in. Are these a regular wear item?



The quill assembly once removed has barely perceptible movement so I doubt the bearings are the issue.

I would imagine if the router/drum sander/shaper/molder is used when the quill is extended that would wear/stretch the plastic drive sleeve that the quill splines slide into. Side force rather than vertical. Reasonable?

Actually horizontal bored today as well. A win after a few losing days. There was sawdust on the floor!

ps I know the dowel holes aren't centered just want to use the damn machine.

Anybody ever had to replace one?


P.S. Nice miter gauge face!!!

JPG40504 wrote:
Anybody ever had to replace one?


P.S. Nice miter gauge face!!!

No, and I cannot see how the spline interface would produce wobble in the quill, arbor or chuck.

It is essentially a gear and once in rotation wear, unless it is really excessive, will have little effect.

If worn badly there would be excessive play in the drive line. There is some developing in both of mine. With power removed, hold the drive coupling at the left end of the headstock and with the other hand move the saw blade back and forth (rotational). In a perfect system there would be no play at all. I have one that has significant movement and yet no wobble.

I agree on the miter face hold down.