Shopsmith Forums

reible wrote:I have sanding and finishing supplies.

Hi Ed]What I know I'm missing is a barrel trimmer. [Not sure I need the trimmer head as I can do the sanding and I can make a simple jig if I see any issues with the hole not being centered during the drilling, you know, to fix that issue. I guess you are stuck with the pilot shafts to clean out the glue/gunk, so maybe just bite the bullet and get a set??? I've also seen hand versions and powered versions, any plus or minus to these????]

The pilot shaft is not a reliable way to clean glue out of the inside of the tube. More reliable is to get some play doh or dental wax sheet and plug the tube. A small exacto knife will clean out any glue that gets into the tube.

I rarely use a barrel trimmer or pen mill any longer. The disk sander is the best way to trim the barrel. I use an old pen mandrel barrel and a block of wood. If you do this, you need to carefully square the disk to the table and the miter gauge. Then square the mandrel sticking out to the miter gauge and the table surface. You will also need to get sleeves for tubes that use larger than 7mm tubes. These can be purchased or made from 7mm pen tubes. Use caution with the disk sander. ONLY LIGHT PRESSURE is needed. Remember your fingers will be close to that sanding disk!!!

And lastly, I've come across the term postable and non-postable, anyone want to have a go as to what that means????

"Post" refers to the cap of a pen that can be unscrewed to expose the writing tip. Non-postable means the cap is not used during writing. Postable means the cap may be screwed on the end of the writing section opposite the nib during writing; it isn't a requirement though.

If you want to contact me, email is preferable as I am an infrequent visitor.
Penturners.org has a wealth of information about pen turning and some of the members use an SS.

Hi,

Thanks for the input!

Given my dislike of CA glues I'll have to see how this goes. Seems every time after initial use I want to use it again I find it hard as a rock.

Couple of days ago I was going to use some nano glue, opened it this spring and how it is gone bad....

Maybe if I started using more of it by making pens I'll stop wasting so much of the glue.

My thoughts have been running more and more towards using the sanding disk to do the squaring and trimming. Once it warms up enough I want to run some experiments with the miter gauge and sanding disk.

I'll have to see if the wife will make me some play dough, she use to do that for our kids.

Thanks also for the post-able information, figured it would be something simple yet not in my normally used terms.

Please don't be a stranger, we can use more expertise from members.

Ed

randyrls wrote:

reible wrote:I have sanding and finishing supplies.

Hi Ed]Penturners.org[/URL] has a wealth of information about pen turning and some of the members use an SS.

Ed,

I use CA glue for gluing the tubes into the wood blanks. I use an insertion tool like this:

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKTINT2.html

I also use a small screw driver that I ground to a sharp point. I place the brass tube on the insertion tool after I sand scratches into the outer side of the tubes using emery cloth. I then insert the glued tubes into the wood blanks. Note: when applying glue to the tubes which are already mounted on the insertion tube, I use a small hole in the spout of the CA Glue and run four or five narrow strips of glue lengthwise around the tubes. Then I insert tubes into the drilled wooden blanks, being careful to twist the tubes in order to spread the glue. The ground screwdriver tip is used to hold the tube into the blank while I remove the insertion tool. One must have a disposable rag handy to wipe CA glue off of tools. Here is one good option for blank gluing;

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKGLUE61.html

I will confess this stuff does dry out. I usually get a small tube to last up to a year before it dries out but not always. Every time a tube dries out I buy another and I always keep one extra on hand. Storing it with the cap ALWAYS on is a must and refrigerating it helps.

Further I am not fond of CA for finishing. This being a personal preference. I hope these tips are helpful. Jim

One of the methods I have seen to solve the CA glue issue.
Purchase super glue in the small .2 oz tubes at walmart or the grocery store or wherever.

1 small tube does approximately 2 pens including using it for applying the finish so you don't have to worry about it getting old or drying out.

I too always keep CA around it also makes a great cut sealer for deep cuts. "Medical adhesive" (used instead of stitches) is sterile CA.

I use an old center punch as an insertion tool. Latex or vinyl gloves are a good idea too.

You can use epoxy or polyurethane (gorilla glue) glues to glue the tubes in. It just takes longer to cure and therefore longer to get the blank on the lathe.

You can use any finishing technique you prefer on the pen. CA is currently in style, but many people prefer a more natural finish with wax. Wipe on poly is also an option.

I have also had good results with spray on finishes as well.

I have stopped wasting time on sanding or scuffing the brass tubes. Just wipe 'em down with acetone or alcohol to get any oil and dirt off of them.

Just my thoughts and opinions.

The most important part about making pens IMHO is to start making them, have fun and be creative. They do take practice though.

I am also wanting to turn a pen or two. This looks like an excellent starter kit with almost everything you need to get started. I found this kit by accident the other day. The kit I fount is from Craft Supplies USA. The price seems reasonable $53 - $55
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store ... _kit?Args=

5 Apprentice™ Slimline Pens with bushings
Apprentice™ Barrel Trimmer Kit
Apprentice™ Pen Mandrel
1 oz. Insta-Bond™ Thick CA Glue
4 oz. Friction Polish
7 mm Brad Point Drill Bit
5 Assorted Wood Pen Blanks
I have watched several of the youtube videos of pen turning.

If you are going to use Shopsmith you will need a Pen Mandrel Set: For 5/8" Shopsmith.

You can also use the universal mandrel with the drill chuck. The one that comes in the kit I posted above will work with the Shopsmith.

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If you have either the 1/4" or 1/2" shopsmith router chucks then you can use them rather then the drill chuck. If you have the 1/2" version you will need to get a router adapter to change it to a 1/4" chuck.

For reference see this thread:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9258

Ed

I wouldn't think the router chuck would center like a drill chuck. Since I have never turned a pen it may be close enough. Unless they make a router chuck with a collet for the Shopsmith.