Shopsmith Forums

robinson46176 wrote: . . .

I once read in a scientific article that when you cut something you do not split the molecules it is made of. It said that the cutting edge just separates them as it moves through and each molecule remains intact. If it didn't stay intact it would become something else... After reading that I started jokingly referring to my knives as "molecular separators".

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I think that is justification for a micro sharp edge!:D

JPG40504 wrote:I think that is justification for a micro sharp edge!:D

Or better organized molecules.


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Careful guys. You know what happens when you split an atom!:D

backhertz wrote:There are many good books on the subject. One I just dug out was written by Ron Hock. The title is, "The Perfect Edge."

I just noticed a special planer cutter that uses 4-sided carbide cutter inserts in a helical patter around the cutter.

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Okay I have Ron Hock's book and cannot seem to locate the 4-sided carbide cutter inserts. Will you be kind enough to point me to a page number? Jim

fjimp wrote:Okay I have Ron Hock's book and cannot seem to locate the 4-sided carbide cutter inserts. Will you be kind enough to point me to a page number? Jim

He did not say he 'noticed' them 'in the book'!

I think the idea is to use all 4 sides, then replace.

Depends on the tool and application, as far as I'm concerned.

My chainsaw teeth have to be sharp, but not delicate or perfect. So the electrical grinder works nicely for me. True, the file puts a slightly better edge to them, but takes a lot longer.

My various knives just need to be sharp, the shape of the blade doesn't usually matter. So, running them through that stacked wheel thingie does just fine most of the time, or using the diamond hone stick.

My shaving razor, I want it shaped a little flatter, so I tend to just strop. Shaving pulls the edge over, stropping puts it back upright.

My chisels, I want those flat and straight and sharp. Jigs a piece of window glass with some wet sandpaper taped to it.

I went back to school 3 years ago on a course when I got out of the service purely for the fun of it and they taught me how to do a fairly good job on sharpening. First if the chisel is screwed up take it to the grinding wheel and flatten it (straight end perfectly square). Then off to the the glass which has 150 grit sandpaper glued to it. Then to the glass with 220 grit. Then to a Japanese waterstone 1000 grit, Then to the other side of the waterstone 8000 grit. Then stropping and finally a buffing wheel with compound. It takes a little time to get the body memory but it works. Finally once your tool is sharp you need to flatten the waterstone because you probably gouged it, take a piece of 1/4 plate glass put some 220 wet sandpaper on it, wet it, and work out the gouges. SInce the course I also like the worksharp system to do the tedious part and then to the very honing on the Japanese stone and the strop and hone on the buffing wheel. And yes I can shave with my chisels, and God forbid someone touches my chisels because they are then closer to seeing God in person than in any other time in their life.

beeg wrote:So Jim. HOW is the hand sharpening going now?

I am making limited progress some of the stones I ordered have not yet arrived. However one set did arrive and solved a nasty issue. One of my bowl gouges had been dropped leaving a nasty chip in the toughest point to sharpen. I followed instructions on one of the videos I studied and square ground the tip where damaged. Then used the hand stone to regrind the tip. Fortunately the stone that just arrived allowed me to get into the narrow flat area and clean it up. That tool works properly for the first time. Yes I am making progress but still not reaching the desired outcome. Thanks for asking. Jim

Gene Howe wrote:I'm not a fan, at all. In fact, if I can find mine, I'll be glad to permanently loan it.

If you can find it, I'll be happy to pay the shipping. Seriously - I'm just getting started on this Shopsmith journey and don't have any way to sharpen my lathe chisels yet.