Shopsmith Forums

Very nice. That looks like something even I could do. Thanks for sharing.

On a related topic, When I was taking photos today, I started thinking about combining this idea with this idea. The result, after a little table shuffling, was this configuration which is essentially a pin router except that the router is not centered under the drill chuck.

All I need to do is build the table again, which I was going to do anyway, but with the router moved to a spot that would roughly center under the drill chuck and make it adjustable (front to back) a small amount to allow fine tuning. Sounds eminently do-able so I probably will.

[ATTACH]16090[/ATTACH]

Stay tuned .... or should this be a separate thread?

Paul M

shipwright wrote:On a related topic, When I was taking photos today, I started thinking about combining this idea with this idea. The result, after a little table shuffling, was this configuration which is essentially a pin router except that the router is not centered under the drill chuck.

All I need to do is build the table again, which I was going to do anyway, but with the router moved to a spot that would roughly center under the drill chuck and make it adjustable (front to back) a small amount to allow fine tuning. Sounds eminently do-able so I probably will.

[ATTACH]16090[/ATTACH]

Stay tuned .... or should this be a separate thread?

Paul M

This be a good place!

Is the pending change to move the router(front/back) to center on the drill arbor? I be assuming in/out(relative to the way tubes) is still adjustable.

Is the hand crank removed to relieve interference with the table? Will that also require changes? <<<Never mind, it is the tube that interferes. A 500 lever(movable) would be more useful in this setup.

P.S. 1"stop collars would be a way to 'hold' the table in/out. <<<<<help me!!!!! I fergit the table has built in 'locks'.

Give me a couple of days and I'll have the Mark II version built.

Paul M

shipwright wrote:The "red plate" is just the bottom of the dadoed out area painted red.

The clear base is a square piece of 3/16" plexiglas that I had around. If I were going out and buying material for this I would get 1/4" lexan. It is screwed on the router body in place of the round factory base. The 3/4" pw table is dadoed (above) to seat the plexiglas flush.

Paul M

I've read a lot about factory tables having multiple screws to level the plate. If it's that important, how do you guarantee your work surface is level?

jeff__130 wrote:I've read a lot about factory tables having multiple screws to level the plate. If it's that important, how do you guarantee your work surface is level?

The leveling screws are to get the plate flush with the surface into which you are installing it. If you dado carefully it's not a problem. If you can't feel a "bump" as you run your finger over the intersection of the table top / plate, then you're fine. If you do you can slip a shaving or two under the low corner.

Paul M

Paul,
Did you ever build Version II? I'll be building this contraption soon and I'd like to hear about whatever troubles you had or advice you'd give if you were making it again. How did you solve the fore/aft alignment issue on the pin router? The only idea I had was to have the table top cut an inch or so short of the distance between the way tubes, then have the table top sit on and be secured to the rails underneath. I envision the alignment bolts sitting nicely in a dado cut, accessible from the top side of the table top. Any thoughts from the peanut gallery?

Jeff

Sorry Jeff, I got sidetracked. I have no need for a pin router at this moment so it fell off the priority list. I think your idea should work fine. I was going for a sliding table above a fixed base but anything that will give fine adjustment will work.

Good luck, I'll be interested in what you come up with.

Paul M

I took Pauls design and added 520 rails. Also going to put together a jig to attach my shaper fence to the rip fence to use with the under table router

Thanks for the original design!! Except for needing to replace my rails on one of my floating tables and buying a few screws this router table didn't cost me anything but some time. Always look forward to looking at all of the ideas that the members of this forum come up with.

Thanks,

aloibl wrote:I took Pauls design and added 520 rails. Also going to put together a jig to attach my shaper fence to the rip fence to use with the under table router

Thanks for the original design!! Except for needing to replace my rails on one of my floating tables and buying a few screws this router table didn't cost me anything but some time. Always look forward to looking at all of the ideas that the members of this forum come up with.

Thanks,

Did you use front and rear rails, or just front rails? I have sets of 510 front/rear rails as well as 520 front rails from a magnetic tape upgrade...suppose I could just order the rear rails