Shopsmith Forums

I'd imagine that the run out on Skip's quill is even less than shown, as I'm sure the drill chuck has to add a bit of run out to the measurement.

pennview wrote:I'd imagine that the run out on Skip's quill is even less than shown, as I'm sure the drill chuck has to add a bit of run out to the measurement.

I was thinking the same thing. I imagine that by using a rounter chuck rather than the drill chuck you might see less deflection.

i would be definitely interested to know what a 3 bearing quill would look like as a standard 2 bearking quill modified with this method. It would be also neat to see this 2 bearing design compared to bill mayo's 2 or 3 bearing up front design.

Is the discussion here about solving an existing problem OR is this an exercise in "How Can We Change the Bearing Cont in a Shopsmith Quill".

Does anyone have a severe run out problem (>.003") that is known to be caused by other than worn bearings?

dusty wrote:Is the discussion here about solving an existing problem OR is this an exercise in "How Can We Change the Bearing Cont in a Shopsmith Quill".

Does anyone have a severe run out problem (>.003") that is known to be caused by other than worn bearings?

I am still finding a few bent quill shafts (.003" and more runout). I trashed 7 bent quill shafts last week. I have discarded a few dozen of both the Gilmer and Poly-V (single and double bearing) quill shafts since I have been rebuilding headstocks. I check every quill shaft runout with and without the bearing(s) to insure I have a straight shaft to start with each time (recent post with pictures). I allow up to .002" runout for single bearing quills and .001" or less for any quill shaft I am machining for the second bearing. I am sure I am the only person doing this detailed checking. I found it helps reduce some future rebuild and repair problems (come-backs/warranty). I have been using my special modified quill shaft test headstock for many years and believe it was one of my better ideas for improved headstock rebuilding.

The common reason I have found for the bent quill shafts is forgetting to lock the headstock tightly and going to or being in the drill press position when the headstock fell. I gotten a few bent quill shafts from bowl turners and from several Shopsmiths falling off the a pickup truck or trailer.

I can certainly see how bowl turning can bend a shaft. Especially if no speed reducer is used on larger pieces.

Just put in the new bearings. no change in the run out. Old Bearings look good. not free spinning & tight on the shaft. It feels like the outer bearing is loose in the quill. I did see marks on the bearing like it was skating or slipping inside the quill. the shaft looks good... can i get a quill housing? will look at the shaft for straightness again this weekend...

mwhizz wrote:Just put in the new bearings. no change in the run out. Old Bearings look good. not free spinning & tight on the shaft. It feels like the outer bearing is loose in the quill. I did see marks on the bearing like it was skating or slipping inside the quill. the shaft looks good... can i get a quill housing? will look at the shaft for straightness again this weekend...

LocTite makes a bearing holding product "Loctite Bearing Mount 680" that really holds loose fitting bearings in housing and on shafts. I have had great success using this product.

Tried Loctite 609. all I could find in Paris Tx.... cured for 4hrs at 75-80deg.
I can move the shaft 0.003-0.007 with it retracted or extended. If I hand turn the shaft it is half the run out is was(0.030) using the Loctite 609.. Not what I was hoping for. Think it is time for a Quill/shaft.

I switched quills from my Mark5. the run out is 0.001. I pulled the quill out, it looked like it was a 2 bearing. So I pressed the shaft from the quill. It was a single bearing with a spacer or shield where the 2d bearing go's. I thought it was an 1983-1984 2 bearing model. It is not it is a 1980. I had wanted to swap shafts, ect... to find out exactly what was wrong with the 510 quill.
Anyway I back together & put the Mark5 quill in the 510.
It worked great!!!:D.
Was able to do the table alignment and make some square cuts. Put the 510 quill in in the Mark5 and it is 0.015 just like expected. I did notice that the single bear quill is much thicker and the bearings are press fit into the quill housing. Where the 510 quill is thinner, lighter and the bearings slide in and out of the quill with ease. So I still need to fix or replace the 2 bearing quill.