JPG40504 wrote:The table is set to 45 degrees, and the work piece is 'exposed' to the disc by advancing the quill. You may need to 'slide' the longer work pieces past the disc with the fence 'off set'.(you advance the screw on the face of the fence front clamp so as to force the rear of the fence away from the arbor). The workpiece is then fed from the back side. The actual sanding takes place at the outer front edge of the disc. Do not use the spinning disc as an emory board!
The 'board' need not be as wide as the overlapping joint. It can be narrow so as to apply the pressure where desired.
30 min should allow it to set so as to be able to handle it, but it is not really strong at that point. Overnight clamping will insure no shifting prior to a firm set.
Got it. All I could picture is a hand held operation but now I see where there is a 'formal' staging method to present the workpiece to the disk. Makes sense. Will also save me $$ since I don't have to buy the 45 degree chamfer router bit.....yet. [Harbor Freight has carbide (internet sale only)for $0.98 ea. but you end out paying $10 after shipping]. Man they have good prices!!!
As far as your glue up method using the the narrower board.....all I can say is......duh!!!:o
Had to post a pic of the glue up method that I used for the 'prototype'.
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Here's the QC work that was needed to ensure squareness.
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They DID come out well but the method was a little cumbersome. Great coordination exercise!!! I'll try both charlese and your method for #2 and
#3.