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Table Alignment Tool

dusty

For those who feel that they can better align their Shopsmith you might want to take a look at this:

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/category_38_Super_Bar.html

Notice that Forrest is advertising a version that works on the Shopsmith.

beeg

I didn't see a price for the SS model. Nor all the extra tips you get with the SS gage.

dusty

beeg wroteI didn't see a price for the SS model. Nor all the extra tips you get with the SS gage.

I have the dial gauge that Shopsmith offers. Yes, it came with a bunch of extra tips of which I have used only one.

I assume the price to be $68.75 just like the one advertised. I am not interested enough to check with Forrest on the specific price for the Shopsmith model.

I am, however, pleased to see that Forrest recognizes that there is a "Shopsmith" specific demand. Most manufacturers have chosen to ignore that fact.

What value are the extra tips?

Why do I need a different tip than the one that came on the gauge?

What this thread has done for me is put me back in the shop with a personal objective to eliminate the slop (.005") in my miter bar.

Please don't tell me to use the tapered screw in the miter bar. It works extremely well to secure the miter bar in the miter slot. It does not work (for me) to eliminate the lateral movement of the bar in the track without restricting movement of the bar along the track.

Right now, I use some mylar strips in the track along with the bar. This gives me the accuracy (stability) I want but I find those mylar strips to be real kludges in what could be a neat system.

timster68

Where did you get the mylar straps from? Do you have any photos of it? I have slop too in the bar except my set screw doesn't lock the bar in the slot:mad:

-Tim

dusty

timster68 wroteWhere did you get the mylar straps from? Do you have any photos of it? I have slop too in the bar except my set screw doesn't lock the bar in the slot:mad:

-Tim

I made the mylar strips using some mylar spacers that came with my Shopsmith router table many years ago. They were spacers for spacing the router insert.

I'll take a photo shot tomorrow. I had some minor followup surgery on my eyes yesterday and SWMBO has a fit every time I even "think" about going out to the shop. The doctor (who knows of my woodworking habit) said that I could return to normal, day to day operations but the commander has over ridden him.

Are you certain that you have a "tapered" insert in the miter bar?

timster68

dusty wroteI made the mylar strips using some mylar spacers that came with my Shopsmith router table many years ago. They were spacers for spacing the router insert.

I'll take a photo shot tomorrow. I had some minor followup surgery on my eyes yesterday and SWMBO has a fit every time I even "think" about going out to the shop. The doctor (who knows of my woodworking habit) said that I could return to normal, day to day operations but the commander has over ridden him.

Are you certain that you have a "tapered" insert in the miter bar?

I hope you feel better soon. As for the insert - I'll have to check - I can't recall right now.

dusty

timster68 wroteI hope you feel better soon.

Thank you for the concern but I am doing great. The surgery was laser type and was quick and painless and has significantly improved my vision. It was being done to remove a membrane that had formed after my previous cataract removals.

My wife is an extreme worrywart and as a result she imposes some absolutely unnecessary restrictions on my activities. In her mind, she is reducing the chance of complications. This all stems from a serious bout of infection I encountered after a previous surgery years ago.

RobertTaylor

if the setscrew in the mitre bar turns easily ie: not cross threaded it would be the correct tapered setscrew. that is the only setscrew on a shopsmith that has a 1/8" pipe thread, that's where the taper comes from. plus your allen wrench will pass completely through the proper screw. pert near all other setscrews are 5/16-18 tpi screws.

shydragon

On the extra tips for the dial indicator, the larger diameter tip is useful when setting jointer knives. It is easier to keep the tip on the blade while you are looking for the high spot.

As far as the miter bar goes, I've always had the same complaint as Dusty, controlling the lateral movement. I found it easier to use the Miter 2000 or any Incra Miter as you can adjust the full length of the miter bar. One thought would be to purchase the miter bar separately and attach it to the SS miter guage.