Shopsmith Forums

mickyd wrote:Buck and a quarter.....standard Mark 5 inside diameter.

But ya gotz an ER also???

mark-b wrote:But ya gotz an ER also???

Buck and a quarter also.

mark-b wrote:But ya gotz an ER also???

Oh come on now I'll bet you have at least A dollar 2.98.

heathicus wrote:And I have the honing guide and sandpaper, but not the glass plate or spray adhesive!

You guys don,t need spray adhesive. It is a PIA. Get a surface plate http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Produc ... rodid=7535 and just spray water one it and lay your wet/dry paper on. The water will hold it in place. The paper does't last long enough to use the glue. Also it is quick to change grits. Keep the used paper between some scrap plywood cut to size.

mbcabinetmaker wrote:You guys don,t need spray adhesive. It is a PIA. Get a surface plate http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=7535 and just spray water one it and lay your wet/dry paper on. The water will hold it in place. The paper does't last long enough to use the glue. Also it is quick to change grits. Keep the used paper between some scrap plywood cut to size.

Thanks for the tip. Easy is good. I'll give it a try. I saw one article that said water was adequate. I'll buy the granite when I wear out my glass plate.

Tad and a half more progress last night on the prototype lantern. Got the edge miters sanded and made it to dry assembly of the sides to the base. I used a 120 grit sanding disk which was probably a little too aggressive but that was all I had. I need to get some higher grits.

My fear of the 45° miter edges not being tight as a drum up the entire height of the part was unwarranted. With real careful staging while doing the disk sanding, the edges came out perfect…….except…..I removed about 1/16” too much material. The uprights (stiles) are about 1/8” narrow than plan. This error came from both the initial miter routing removing about 1/16” too much and then the sanding removing about 1/16”. Initially, I didn’t have my quill stop set. Since the first piece was off, I had to do all of them the same. This will require modifying the glass width just a little for this lantern. No biggie.

Here is the initial staging of the side to get the mitered edge lined up to the sanding disk. I used two 3/8” wide woodruff keys between the part and the table edge for alignment prior to clamping.
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Once the part was aligned, I clamp it to the table and removed the keys. This is probably the point where I should have set my quill lock.
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After seeing how quickly the stock got removed by the sanding disk, I am thinking that on the next lantern(s), I won't even bother cutting the 45° miter with the table router. Instead, I should just sand it. One less op to screw up on. The 120 grit paper quickly chewed through the mahagony. Once I did the one edge on all 4 pieces, I installed the rip fence and used that as the stop for doing the other side.
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Finally step for the night was a dry assembly with rubber bands.
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For the final glue up, I am going to use strap clamps as mark-b had suggested. After that, I just have to make the top, cut out the copper flower motifs, cut the glass, and glue her up. Then I start the other two.

Procedural or ANY other critiques welcome!!

Strap clamps are great, rubber bands work well for less, but for my money I have to say I'm a masking tape guy from WAY back. The world's most universal clamp. You can even edge glue veneer with it.

Paul M

mickyd wrote:Worked on the lantern bases last night. The 3 bases will each be 3/8”Tx4”Wx4”L. Started with a piece of 1”Tx4”x13” and used the ‘controversial’ free hand rip method shown in post 50 to get the 3/8”Tx4”x13” slabs. A difference this time here was working with a longer piece of stock. Making the cut felt very smooth and controlled. I made the first pass through the entire length, flipped the board, and ripped through stopping a couple inches shy to leave a web between the two halves that I finished with a handsaw. Still many of you that wouldn’t make this cut?? I don’t want to build a false sense of security and really want your input. Like I said, it seemed OK but so is running across the road with your eyes closed…..sometimes.
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You’ll notice lots of saw marks on the slabs. Still don’t know for sure if it’s me or as dusty had suggested, possibly the blade. Any easy way to verify the blade?

Once I got the squares cut, the next step was to add the rabbet that holds the base in the groove on the bottom rail and also supports the glass. My first rabbet.....horray!! and it came out…..HORRIBLE. I think I did it back-asswards. I first cut it to depth.
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After cutting to precisely the correct depth, I measured the width and realized that I set up to the wrong side of the blade. It was precisely inaccurate by a blade width too wide. (Now I know for sure you 'seasoned' guys have never done that before)

I then stood the part on end and ripped to depth, or at least attempted to. You can see by the grooves on the rabbit surface that I botched it up…..salvagable with some kind of creative rework, but botched. I was kind of surprised since I felt that I really measured pretty accurately with a steel scale. Maybe I had a pre-senior moment??
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So, when I said I did it back-asswards, I probably should have first stood the part up on end and ripped to the depth then cut to width having the saw blade just break through the surface. Is that the correct way to do it?

Anyway, had a ball. Worked outside under the lights since my dust collection system right now is old man gravity and the shop floor.

Close up examination of your greenie's saw blade shows it is a 'set' tooth, ground steel blade. They rarely are capable of the smooth cutting that carbide blades which scrape the sides of the cut whereas your blade 'scratches' the side of the cut. Technique can minimize it, but not eliminate it! For a smoother cut, a hollow ground blade works better.

shipwright wrote:Strap clamps are great, rubber bands work well for less, but for my money I have to say I'm a masking tape guy from WAY back. The world's most universal clamp. You can even edge glue veneer with it.

Paul M

I'll give the masking tape method a try on one of them. They showed that method in the directionsbut I was concerned that it wouldn't pull the joints closed. I'm sure it's a technique easily learned.

Stick the masking tape to one side and the stretch it as you take it to the other side and then stick it down. It does give good pressure but you have to use good masking tape. The cheap stuff doesn't stretch and squeeze.
I've used it for years. Once you've tried it you'll use it A LOT for clamping.