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The switch #7300001 ($5.41 now) is best for the replacement I found for the Mark V toggle switch. I actually had overtighten one of these motor rated switches (no nut) so I disassemblied the switch. I use the nut since then to prevent damage to the switch when tighting a second nut. The motor rated contact points are at least 2-3 times bigger than the contact points on the original Mark V toggle switch. I have used dozens of these switches without any reported failures. I use the 7300002 switch for the FWD/REV option on the motor.

I know this thread is a little dated but I thought this might help someone in the future.

The same Gardner Bender switch mentioned above can be picked up locally if you have a Home Depot nearby.

Here's a link

I'm in the process of going through an inherited SS Mark V and needed one of these. $5.69 at the time of this post.

Hope this helps.

kgoods wrote:I know this thread is a little dated but I thought this might help someone in the future.

The same Gardner Bender switch mentioned above can be picked up locally if you have a Home Depot nearby.

Here's a link

I'm in the process of going through an inherited SS Mark V and needed one of these. $5.69 at the time of this post.

Hope this helps.

That one is only rated at 3/4 HP, which is probably fine for a greenie with the original motor. But I wouldn't want to use it on a 1.125 HP late model marK 5

wiredone wrote:That one is only rated at 3/4 HP, which is probably fine for a greenie with the original motor. But I wouldn't want to use it on a 1.125 HP late model marK 5

HD product description is wrong.

GB catalog says 1 1/2 HP.

JPG40504 wrote:HD product description is wrong.

GB catalog says 1 1/2 HP.

That is great news. I need a switch for one of mine.

The switch is probably OK but I have had poor results with the screw terminals on some of them. When I used to work on two way radio systems we had problems with the screws working loose. Especially on the fire trucks. Probably due to vibration. We had better luck with the push terminals.
Bill V

wa2crk wrote:The switch is probably OK but I have had poor results with the screw terminals on some of them. When I used to work on two way radio systems we had problems with the screws working loose. Especially on the fire trucks. Probably due to vibration. We had better luck with the push terminals.
Bill V

So come up with one that has 1/4" tabs(DPST ON-OFF 1 1/2 HP 20/10A @ 125/277VAC)

http://shop.willyselectronics.com/brows ... ,2915.html
OK?
Bill V

I have had less than good experience with Philmore switches in the past.

I like Bill Mayo's choice.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... stcount=16

Doesn't everyone who manufacturers switches make them optional as either screw terminals or slip on (spade) terminals.