Shopsmith Forums

curiousgeorge wrote:Who put a burr under your saddle? It seems that a lot of your latest posts have been a little on the caustic side. Do you have a problem we can help you with? Or, do I just need to get used to your sense of humor?

Thanks for asking. Most people don't and I appreciate your response because it suggests that you are one who asks before jumping to conclusions. My sense of humor is a bit caustic and focuses on what is going on in this nation. Some, but not all is tongue in cheek - a British a term that most of you probably still recognize. Assuredly, I offended some, misguided others, misled more and was so off mark that some just said, "Huh?" Perhaps I should run for Congress. Not! From what I've said I may be qualified.

Most of my outrageous comments are meant to be thoughtful but not outrageous - that is, so far outrageous that someone would say they are outrageous. So, if they appear to be outrageous they most likely are but are intended to make a point on something that is less so.

So, going forward, I have a wry, caustic and acerbic sense of humor]may [/B]have been offended, suck it up!

I remain:

Incorrigible as always

db5, Thank you for the apology. I am not easily offended and I wasn't, this time. I simply made an observation and was curious... Get it? ... curiousgeorge.
Ok. Enough frivolity... carry on

Stop Collars....good idea. I just purchased two and replaced the socket head 1/4-28 screws with button head screws with a 5/32" allen drive so I can use the original Shopsmith do-all allen wrench.

I had no idea that stop collars could be so useful. Mine were still on the tailstock, unused, ever since I bought my 510. After pondering how brilliant they would be to use on the saw table and extension table, it also dawned on me: on my 510 I can also use them on the rip fence! The tube that my 510 rip fence slides on is the same diameter as the table supports. I don't know how many times I've wished I could move my rip fence and then return it to a previous position. Now I can. Thanks for the tip!

Stop collars also work great in helping you setup the vertical and horizontal alignment of a Special Purpose Tool (SPT) on the eccentric mounting tubes. You can get the drive shaft aligned faster to minimize vibration.

wasatch wrote:Stop collars also work great in helping you setup the vertical and horizontal alignment of a Special Purpose Tool (SPT) on the eccentric mounting tubes. You can get the drive shaft aligned faster to minimize vibration.

Please elaborate. I understand using stop collars to lock vertical positions BUT how do you employ the stop collars to perform vertical and horizontal positioning of the eccentrics.

This can be a laborious task when done without assistance so if you have some tricks, I am sure they will be appreciated.

It is simply magical how "WE" on this forum can take a really interesting, really informative thread and degrade it to a pi$$ing contest. Sorry but it had to be said.

Reible
Thanks so much for the information. I developed a real affection for stop collars when I managed to push my table down while holding some wood down to run through the molder head. You really don't want to know what happens when moulder head suddenly is taking a half inch deep cut. Things get nasty really quick. WOW!

Never thought of the split ring collars and I have found myself many times all set up and wishing I had installed the stop collar. I will be ordereing some split collars right away.

Also I thought I kept my machine bright and shiney and tidy. Man I am a mere rooky compared to you. I have to go now I have some polishing I have to do.

Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ed in Tampa wrote:It is simply magical how "WE" on this forum can take a really interesting, really informative thread and degrade it to a pi$$ing contest. Sorry but it had to be said.

Reible
Thanks so much for the information. I developed a real affection for stop collars when I managed to push my table down while holding some wood down to run through the molder head. You really don't want to know what happens when moulder head suddenly is taking a half inch deep cut. Things get nasty really quick. WOW!

Never thought of the split ring collars and I have found myself many times all set up and wishing I had installed the stop collar. I will be ordereing some split collars right away.

Also I thought I kept my machine bright and shiney and tidy. Man I am a mere rooky compared to you. I have to go now I have some polishing I have to do.

Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry about that. Forgive me.

jbergen wrote:I had no idea that stop collars could be so useful. Mine were still on the tailstock, unused, ever since I bought my 510. After pondering how brilliant they would be to use on the saw table and extension table, it also dawned on me: on my 510 I can also use them on the rip fence! The tube that my 510 rip fence slides on is the same diameter as the table supports. I don't know how many times I've wished I could move my rip fence and then return it to a previous position. Now I can. Thanks for the tip!

Hi,

I too had thought about the idea of using the extension tubes with stop collars, in fact I purchased some to try out. The bad news was that they did not fit. I did not attempt to solve the mystery of why they did not fit, but none of the 4 I got would go on any of the tubes....

The ones I tried were the ones with set screws, so that means one could attempt to see how the split collars work. If you do please let us know.

Ed

Well I'm back, physically anyway, not really a fan of travel but I like to see the places we go, so we go.

The thread did take some odd turns here and there.

Now that I've had a chance to catch up one thing that seems to have been mentioned several times was the condition of my 1976 machine... Just keep in mind that it has had a few updates in recent years. The main table legs were part of the dual tilt upgrade as an example and having the machine out in sunlight accounts for a lot of the shine.

I was running short on time before so I left this part for when I returned. I'm sure that some of you may have been thinking about how to have stops for the carriage or headstock. Once again one option is the use of stop collars on the way tube(s). You might notice I left off adjustments, that is because that is a tricky task. I've played with it several times but I don't have a solution I really like. (I do have several other ideas I have not yet tried.) Feel free to do your own testing.

One other critical thing that I think I should mention is that these stop collars can be over tightened and distort your tubes.... snug enough to hold but do not bare down on them.

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Have some fun playing and feel free to keep posting your findings and other tips along the way.

Ed