I'm sure I'm a little late with this but I'm all into to using the right parts for doing coupling on a shopsmith, that being the shopsmith part. A coupling with out a shear component would worry me.
I still have my original one and have never broken one but I still like knowing that if need be it will be there to disconnect the power.
I grew up in a vacation area know for freshwater fishing. So my first practical view of shear pin applications came from seeing first hand why they were used. Those that thought they were not required did so at the price of a new prop and the nail they stuck in to save the price of a shear pin.
I'd also worry about the set screws going at a 90 degree angle and not fitting right on the tapered shopsmith shaft. Can't promise that will or will not be an issue but it is another thing to keep in mind. If a set screw were to come loose enough to spin on the shaft things could be pretty messed up....
reible wrote:II'd also worry about the set screws going at a 90 degree angle and not fitting right on the tapered shopsmith shaft. Can't promise that will or will not be an issue but it is another thing to keep in mind. If a set screw were to come loose enough to spin on the shaft things could be pretty messed up....
Ed
I have been using the krunled cup point set screw for many, many years in any area that I believed the set screw could come loose at the wrong time. Yes, it can leave an impression on the shaft but I find a quick lick with a metal file takes care of that problem. I use them in all the hubs as I normally do not change them. Of course, have 2 or more Shopsmiths helps prevent the need for having to change arbors and hubs. I do replace any krunled point set screw when you cannot see the krunls on the cup lip. I have used a few hundred of these set screws over the years. I cannot remember any of them coming loose.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
skou wrote:JPG, they act as a "shear pin" which is designed to fail before something else does. (Kinda like a mechanical "fuse.")
You're just doing it right. (but, since they are plastic, they will fail sometimes,
even though you're careful.)
Leave one out in the sunshine for a few weeks, and see how long it lasts.
steve
Another 'factor' in my 'original's' longevity is the material of which it is made. It is nylon and referred to as 'unbreakable(that means 'fail proof'?) Zytel' in 'literature of the time it was made. Recent versions are of a much less durable plastic.
P.S. This thread(at this end anyway) has been related to using a lovejoy coupling for the 10E/ER Jig Saw. SS does not make that very short coupling any more, so a substitute need be used.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange