Shopsmith Forums

rlkeeney wrote:I was just thinking about these seconds before I saw your post. You could mount most any small flashlight in one of these. Some of them will put out more light than you coulds possibly use.

[ATTACH]24070[/ATTACH]

A quick Google search found a bunch of other possibilities.

I'm a big fan of the clamp on lamps and have several of them. They are cheap and use cheap standard bulbs that are available in just about any type you want. They are available just about anywhere for around $5.

[ATTACH]24071[/ATTACH]

Received it today and is better than I expected, but it is still battery operated, but I will give it a try. As an aside does the SS light have the ability to be magnetic since I will most probably epoxying a piece of metal onto the composite SS Bandsaw case?

According to the catalog page for the Shopsmith Utility Light, extra mounting brackets can be put on any machine you like. It won't be magnetic, but it would be just about as fast, and probably more secure.http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/mvmisc_utilitylight.htm

Mike

A lot of the lighting in my shop is still "temporary" (a rather loose term in my world ) running off of lightweight extension cords and hanging on nails with the cords running back to a plug-in strip with its own circuit breaker. I'm doing it like that until I get my layout a little more finalized. I'm pretty much there now (at least until I change it again )
Yesterday I was noticing a darkish area to the left of the tablesaw then realized that I had borrowed that light to use as a work light on a small project upstairs a while back and forgot to move it back to the shop.
Some days I need a keeper...
Gee, that one light made a difference. It was one of the 150 watt equivalent CFL's. Those really put out the light but only draw about 43 watts.
I'm ready to hard-wire the lights now. I picked up a 250' roll of 12-2 w/ground and need to check my supply of boxes and sockets. This batch of lights will all be on one circuit and switched at the shop door. I also have the original four 8' long two bulb regular fluorescent's there that are switched at the top of the stairs. That gives me plenty of light if either breaker trips. I don't ever want to be standing in a black shop holding a board with a power tool still running.
I want to make a run to the outside door for an exterior outlet and will steal from it to feed a porch light above the door switched just inside of the door.
While I am running those lines I want to run a 20 amp line (#10) out of that corner of the house about 50' where we have a small woodsy spot with lawn chairs, a fire ring etc. where we have family picnics. A couple of post lights and power for a skeeter zapper etc. Maybe a coffee pot or slow cooker now and then.


.

I've got one of the old ER lights. Cost a pretty penny, $100. (But, it came with a free ER.) That light bracket was made to go under the upper pulley guard bolt, but that bolt is so short, you can't use the light and the guard at the same time.

steve

robinson46176 wrote:A lot of the lighting in my shop is still "temporary" (a rather loose term in my world ) running off of lightweight extension cords and hanging on nails with the cords running back to a plug-in strip with its own circuit breaker. I'm doing it like that until I get my layout a little more finalized. I'm pretty much there now (at least until I change it again )
Yesterday I was noticing a darkish area to the left of the tablesaw then realized that I had borrowed that light to use as a work light on a small project upstairs a while back and forgot to move it back to the shop.
Some days I need a keeper...
Gee, that one light made a difference. It was one of the 150 watt equivalent CFL's. Those really put out the light but only draw about 43 watts.
I'm ready to hard-wire the lights now. I picked up a 250' roll of 12-2 w/ground and need to check my supply of boxes and sockets. This batch of lights will all be on one circuit and switched at the shop door. I also have the original four 8' long two bulb regular fluorescent's there that are switched at the top of the stairs. That gives me plenty of light if either breaker trips. I don't ever want to be standing in a black shop holding a board with a power tool still running.
I want to make a run to the outside door for an exterior outlet and will steal from it to feed a porch light above the door switched just inside of the door.
While I am running those lines I want to run a 20 amp line (#10) out of that corner of the house about 50' where we have a small woodsy spot with lawn chairs, a fire ring etc. where we have family picnics. A couple of post lights and power for a skeeter zapper etc. Maybe a coffee pot or slow cooker now and then.


.

Make sure it is underground rated.(UF) It can be NM indoors. Switched just before exiting would provide splicing opportunity.

IIWM, I would drive a grounding rod at the 'pit'.

Very long thread and I admit I haven't read it all word for word. I use a SS
light on the Mk V and have always had to buy heavy duty bulbs at Lowes or Home Depot because regular incandescent can't handle the vibration.

My question is are the CFL's subject to the same problem?

Don G

dgreen810 wrote:Very long thread and I admit I haven't read it all word for word. I use a SS
light on the Mk V and have always had to buy heavy duty bulbs at Lowes or Home Depot because regular incandescent can't handle the vibration.

My question is are the CFL's subject to the same problem?

Don G

No filament to wiggle.

I use them in my 'worklights'.

Get the ones that have a minimum 'on delay'.

Led's are likely a better choice!