Shopsmith Forums

Fred Grover wrote:That is nice WimZiggy. I would like to see that in use. By chance do you have plans for that ? I like to try and make my own Jigs if it is safe and can save money in my book that is the way to go. But, sometimes you cannot skimp on certain items. Thanks for sharing that with us.

Golly, Fred, I don't remember where I got the plan, but I see someone has posted some sources. I probably found it in one of the woodworking mags. I first saw one at an antique tool collectors meeting and thought, "those old guys were really smart in the way they worked". So I made one.

I had left over mahogany and made it from that except for the threaded rod which is maple. I had just gotten a 1" thread box and tap and wanted to try them out. I turned the handle on the end.

It works well. I keep the mitered edge waxed with Johnson's Paste and use a low angle Lie-Nelsen miter plane which cuts end grain well. From time-to-time I get a width that the jaws won't handle and then it's off to other methods.

WmZiggy wrote:Golly, Fred, I don't remember where I got the plan, but I see someone has posted some sources. I probably found it in one of the woodworking mags. I first saw one at an antique tool collectors meeting and thought, "those old guys were really smart in the way they worked". So I made one.

I had left over mahogany and made it from that except for the threaded rod which is maple. I had just gotten a 1" thread box and tap and wanted to try them out. I turned the handle on the end.

It works well. I keep the mitered edge waxed with Johnson's Paste and use a low angle Lie-Nelsen miter plane which cuts end grain well. From time-to-time I get a width that the jaws won't handle and then it's off to other methods.

What keeps the plane from cutting into the 'mitered edge'? Or do I not unnerstan how to use it?:rolleyes:

JPG40504 wrote:What keeps the plane from cutting into the 'mitered edge'? Or do I not unnerstan how to use it?:rolleyes:

Nothing it's a wear item. but when shooting something like end grain miter the shaving is typically very fine and of course even so acceptable wear over time.

You would have to be shooting a lot of miters (hundreds to thousands?) to make a sever impact. By then, make another.

terrydowning wrote:Nothing it's a wear item. but when shooting something like end grain miter the shaving is typically very fine and of course even so acceptable wear over time.

You would have to be shooting a lot of miters (hundreds to thousands?) to make a sever impact. By then, make another.

So a very sharp 'butt' chisel with a long handle/shaft and manually operated would likely work also?

Doubtful - the hand and eye are too imprecise. That's why they make planes.

On not cutting the jack, I usually place the edge to be mitered a hair proud of the surface.

The Donkey's ear that Paul Referenced above is another option (similar to a Shooting Board) but on a 45 degree angle.

Another option for using chisels is to use a board with a dead straight 45 as a guide for your chisels and pare the cut item smooth.

You can see this in action in the third video in this series from FWW.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/56997/two-ways-to-build-a-box

On the mitered dovetail in the video a jack or donkey's ear simply would not work. as you have to get your chisel between the tails or pains on the dovetail

WmZiggy wrote:Doubtful - the hand and eye are too imprecise. That's why they make planes.

On not cutting the jack, I usually place the edge to be mitered a hair proud of the surface.

I meant to use the back side of the chisel to reference the jack surface. This creates a low angle of the chisel bevel angle for the workpiece and a zero angle to the jack. This would allow paring right down to the jack surface.

I question the accuracy of 'just proud' re the angle across the thickness. We may be talking hairs here! Smaller than the jack accuracy to begin with.

I think I will stick with a sled!:D(for now)



Now the donkey's ear seems a real soon possibility. Shooting board for miters. Cool!!!!!

Chisels used as a plane over a length will dig in, especially where grain changes direction. The plane sole prevents this from happening. End grain can be pared and the jack used as a guide, but only with small pieces.

Proud is something you feel with your finger.

WmZiggy wrote:Chisels used as a plane over a length will dig in, especially where grain changes direction. The plane sole prevents this from happening. End grain can be pared and the jack used as a guide, but only with small pieces.

Proud is something you feel with your finger.

Technique is important as well as grain direction. Think short arcs as the cutting action, not long strokes. I am not disagreeing with the proper use of a plane with a very shallow blade exposure, just looking for a possible alternative.
You the one with experience. I just be tumbling things in my mind.

shipwright wrote:A couple of solutions:
I use hot hide glue and assemble all four corners at once with masking tape, no clamps necessary. A fraction of a degree here or there is lost and they look perfect and are extremely strong.[/url]

Yesterday I tried using tape to hold and glue mitered corners. Works! Thanks for the tip.

[ATTACH]24199[/ATTACH]