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Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 6:53 pm
by shaun.farmer
I got the power head apart and everything looks real nice. One question about the worm gear and porkchop. How should that be lubricated? It was caked in goo and sawdust.

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:16 pm
by JPG
shaun.farmer wrote:I got the power head apart and everything looks real nice. One question about the worm gear and porkchop. How should that be lubricated? It was caked in goo and sawdust.

You will get varying 'opinions', but I prefer powdered graphite.

P.S. small drop of oil on the shaft bearing.

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:21 pm
by shaun.farmer
JPG40504 wrote:You will get varying 'opinions', but I prefer powdered graphite.

P.S. small drop of oil on the shaft bearing.
What about between the gear and the porkchop?

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:38 pm
by JPG
shaun.farmer wrote:What about between the gear and the porkchop?

Graphite. No it will not stick, but it will 'coat'. Keeps crud from sticking also. The contact area is very small.

Some like grease
(sparingly), but it grabs sawdust(as you already have seen).

As for preventing wear, the 'secret' is to 'slow down' slowly. Adjusting towards slow the porkchop is squeezing the motor belt. The floating sheave must respond to reestablish belt tension. Do not force the dial.

Going towards fast quickly is not detrimental. It is releasing the belt. You can feel the difference as it is adjusted. However if the floating sheave is slow to respond(lack of lubrication) the porkchop can pull the control sheave(not good).

This is the reason both sheaves need to be lubricated every 10 hours.
It precludes premature wear on other parts(porkchop, control sheave loop). The porkchop should never pull on the loop.

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:20 pm
by dgale
JPG40504 wrote:A I add a 1" pvc pipe(capped both ends) to insert into the interior of the tubes so as to reduce the volume of evaporust needed to submerge the tube.
Excellent idea!

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:10 pm
by shaun.farmer
Put it back together and the speed adjustment is a lot smoother.

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:05 am
by heathicus
To illustrate the power of Evapo-Rust, this is an Jacobs drill chuck I got with one of my ERs, pictured in the state I received it in.

Image

I thought it was a lost cause. But, a couple days soak in Evapo-Rust, and it looked like this:

Image

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 10:22 am
by shaun.farmer
I definitely have a bunch if parts, large & small, that need some type of treatment.

The PVC tube idea seems great and electrolysis isn't difficult.

My next steps:

Bandsaw inspection and test
Get an exact inventory of what the hell I have.
Determine best rust removal options for what pieces.

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:13 pm
by dgale
Holy cow Heath! That is impressive. Reminds me I've probably left my 10E tubes soaking for too long...not sure it matters but I keep forgetting to go extraxt them and put the next set in.

Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:15 pm
by heathicus
Unless I'm mistaken, Evapo-Rust is not corrosive to "good" metal, so I don't think there's any harm in soaking them "too long."