Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:

Actually two of them.]http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... shield.htm[/URL]

Sure enough and I even have one of them. I have one Shopsmith router bit (505599 $13.45) that appears to have never been chucked. I don't even know why I have it since I do not do routing on the Shopsmith. I had a Delta router table and a Porter Cable router with an assortment of bits long before I bought the Shopsmith.

I learn something new about myself nearly everyday.

BTW I have NO router bits with flats.

JPG40504 wrote:

Code: Select all

Actually two of them.]http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... shield.htm[/URL]

Really, 4 of them.

2 on the 1/4 inch chuck, and 2 more on the 1/2 inch chuck.

steve

I've tried painting the screws with fingernail polish. I like red best. It works for a while.
Has anyone tried wrapping one with Teflon tape?

Are y'all using the 'original' L shaped wrench, or the newer 'eklind?' with red plastic covered over and back shaped handle? I think the original torques screws better. That is why I do not use the newer one.

I use the new one. I can torque till the hex rod begins to twist.
Maybe, inserting the short end of the old one would give you more torquablity because it wouldn't twist as soon.

Gene Howe wrote:I use the new one. I can torque till the hex rod begins to twist.
Maybe, inserting the short end of the old one would give you more torquablity because it wouldn't twist as soon.

No I did not mean to use it that way. I feel the top part twisting far easier(more) than the shank between the screw and the handle. The 'original' leg does not give like the double bend handle.

I use an allen wrench like the one shown in the Help Kit. When I am tightening a set screw, I go finger tight and then grap and twist the t-handle three times. This seems to torque the screw down quite well. There are some applications like the four screws on top of the ProFence that are almost too tight. I think this is the result of steel screws being torqued into aluminum.

dusty wrote:I use an allen wrench like the one shown in the Help Kit. When I am tightening a set screw, I go finger tight and then grap and twist the t-handle three times. This seems to torque the screw down quite well. There are some applications like the four screws on top of the ProFence that are almost too tight. I think this is the result of steel screws being torqued into aluminum.

That is the one I do not like nor use.

dusty wrote:Jerome, have you determined what must be done to secure your arbor set screw so that it remains secure?

I hope that some of this discussion has given you some clue to a solution.

Absolutely. I'm gonna try a flat,oval cupped,knurled brass set screw lathered with Loctite and nail polish, and wrapped in Teflon tape. I'm gonna jiggle it with an L shaped T wrench and tighten it in til the wrench twists in my hands.

gr8mesquite wrote:Absolutely. I'm gonna try a flat,oval cupped,knurled brass set screw lathered with Loctite and nail polish, and wrapped in Teflon tape. I'm gonna jiggle it with an L shaped T wrench and tighten it in til the wrench twists in my hands.

Hope all that helps!:rolleyes: