charlese wrote:Dusty, I know you have said you don't have a PowerPro. Therefor we can excuse your questions.
To avoid any confusion--
The pic in post 13 is a cut-away view inside the power module. The PM is sealed. Opening it voids warranty.
Thank you so very much for that, Charlese.
As a matter of curiosity, Charlese, did you buy an assembled PowerPro or did you do a DIY?
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:I take this to mean that you hit the "power on" switch to check for power at each of these steps.
If this is the case, I wonder why the "Procedure" does not call for that rather than allow a user to completely assemble the machine only to find out that a buried connector is unplugged.
Excuse my attitude here, please. I spent too many years in the manufacturing and test environment. This sort of situation should not be allowed to exist.
There was no step during the upgrade process to check for power to the new control/key pad or motor until you are approximately 95% of the way complete with the upgrade. That initial power application step does not occur until after the headstock is returned to the tubes and the motor is mated up. At that point, your visibility into the interior of the headstock is virtually nil. If you apply power and nothing happens, you have no recourse but to disassemble back to a point where you installed the power supply and mated the associated wires/connectors up to begin troubleshooting.
Leif
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Shorty"
1981 Mark V Model 500 "Drill Press"
1987 Sawsmith 2000 Ultra
2005 Mark 7 PowerPro Model 520/Bandsaw/Jointer/Pro Planer/Belt Sander/Scroll Saw/Jigsaw/Strip Sander/Universal Tool Rest/Speed Reducer/DC3300/RingMaster/Mortising Package/MiterSled 5000/Biscuit Joiner/Grinding Wheel Guard/Nova G3 Chuck/Lathe Duplicator/SS Air System
2010 Lumber Smith sawmill
CarveWright CNC
"I wish I could remember everything my Dad taught me"
I am in the middle of the PP upgrade. I can see how easy it could be after you have completed one. And yes the DVD is very good. However there are a few bumps in the road that can cause a high level of frustration. My advise is watch the DVD a couple of times, really pay attention to details and take your time.
Can anyone tell me what the screw size/thread is for the screw that goes into the headstock to hold the eccentric ring in place? It seems to be an unusual size/thread---having trouble getting a clear answer from SS.
#8 too small, #10 too big
Attachments
SS Eccentric ring holding screw 1.jpg (225.43 KiB) Viewed 2550 times
I try to keep the eccentric bushing screw with the headstock when I disassemble them. I have been drilling thru any casing missing the screw and using a 10-24 tap to cut threads thru the complete hole. I use a 10-24 X 1" screw along with a 3/4 " washer and a #10 internal star washer to retain the eccentric bushing. I do use permanent Loctite (271) on this screw every time. I find some headstocks have a #10 sheet metal screw installed. The 1/2" stock retaining washer will not keep the Idler shaft bearing from exiting the eccentric bushing once the eccentric is rotated more than 60 deg to tighten the belt if the eccentric bushing set screw does loosen.
One of my many improvements: I have been discarding the eccentric bushing cone point set screw and replacing it with a 5/16-18 X 1/4" Knurl-Grip Cup Point Set Screw for many years. I find the cone point set screw had loosen on a lot of the headstocks I rebuild. Also, I find customers will over tighten this set screw which can result a clicking noise, overheating and bearing failure due to the Idler shaft bearing outer race being distorted from the cone point. I always use a 3/4" body washer in place of the original washer.
I am happy to make available this setscrew and 3/4" washer package for free to anyone who contacts me off-line. I still have available a free bolt kit to replace the quadrant roll pin.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
c2h6o wrote:Can anyone tell me what the screw size/thread is for the screw that goes into the headstock to hold the eccentric ring in place? It seems to be an unusual size/thread---having trouble getting a clear answer from SS.
#8 too small, #10 too big
A 'self threading' screw is common. Similar to a sheet metal screw. The thread pitch varies, so an exact match is difficult.
Failing to find a match, I would be inclined to tap it to 10-32 or 10-24(3/16-24).
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG--thank you for the reply and insight--I would like to take you up on your offer for the setscrew--also does the position of hex head screw in the eccentric bushing important prior to tightening the system? Should the hex head be at a certain position like 1 o'clock relative to the headstock screw holding this in place?
I finally completed my PP upgrade--system runs great. More difficult than expected but if you take your time, review the DVD (very good) it is well within the skill of most people. It took me more the 4-5 hrs but I could next one in that time frame.
After reading this thread, it's too bad that they didn't put a series of LEDs on the Power Supply to indicate faults or normal operation. These could be placed to view through the access hole on the back side of the headstock.
