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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 2:03 am
by charlese
Sound Excellent to me, Paul! Although not an avid turner, I feel confident that info. will help me one of these days! Here's a great big
ATTA BOY!! 
Now, we're talkin! AND polishing!
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 3:41 pm
by maxwell
To Roy, Paul, Tim, Ed, et.al.,
This thread just keeps getting better and better!
Thanks for all the clarification of just what these adapters are, each's unique components, their uses, drawbacks, etc.
I've made a wooden chuck/collet from a 3x3x3 in. block of hard maple scrap (as per Ed's idea):
- I used my 4 jaw chuck to hold the block and center-drilled a 1/2 in. hole thru it.
- I then reversed the block and rechucked it into the jaws and drilled a 5/8 in. hole 1/2 in. deep into that end.
- I then turned/reamed a taper from the 5/8 in. hole and 'connected' the 1/2 in. hole.
The Beall slips into this block w/ NO wiggle, wabble slop, etc. When used as any spindle turning (piece tightly pressed between drive end tail; switched-on momentarily to check for out-of-center, etc; re-tightening the quill-feed as needed, and then power-on and go) this unit now works as advertised. WOW!! The thing spins just as smoothly as a spanked baby's bottom, and results in a just as smooth and glossy finish. <I know, the reference to spanked babies butts is terribly NOT PC; but it's a old saying of my very salty neighbor who was one of the gentlest souls on the planet.>
Now, I just might start a new thread as to WHEN/HOW to finish using a penetrating, film, and/or polish finish. I 'think' the Beall system cleans and burnishes the wood, and then applies a wax film finish which is then polished. I'll bet the advise would start with: "What is the piece gonna be used for, and then plan/finish accordingly..."
The Best Wood Tools site looks like another SUPER ShopSmith resource (Don Pencil, too)!
Again, a million "Thanks!"to ALL who've weighed in! Next time y'all are in my neck o' da woods (midwest - last post, a week ago, sun was shining and spring had arrived-now looking out window, no sun w/ snow flurries...ARRGGHHH) lemme buy ya a beverage of your choice and we'll swap lies...
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:52 pm
by a1gutterman
Hi maxwell,
Glad that you found a solution, and shared it.

Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:32 pm
by charlese
Wow, Maxwell! You solved the situation by throwing $ at it.

About $3 of wood, $0.10 electricity (being generous).
That's the way I like to see thing being done! A great big ATTA BOY!! for you - - and another for Ed in Tampa! ATTA BOY!!, Ed.
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:26 pm
by tradertom
billmayo wrote:I would only use a #2 Morse taper to a #2 morse taper adapter. I would not try to modify any thing to hold the #2 morse taper as vibration will make it loose and very dangerous. I have used this one at slow speeds on the Shopsmith as the WTTools store is nearby.
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/prod ... Collet_Set $18.95
I know I saw a 5/8" ID to #2 Morse Taper adapter somewhere in my searching in the past but could not find it today.
Bill Mayo
Wonder if you could use the addaptor with a 1//2" router chuck?